In recent years, the Elbe between Magdeburg and Lauenburg has become increasingly less important as a major shipping route: in particular, prolonged low water levels mean that cargo shipping can only unload at shallow depths, which is no longer profitable. As a result, commercial shipping coming from Hamburg and Lübeck in the direction of Berlin "bypasses" the Elbe via the Elbe Lateral Canal and the Mittelland Canal, before travelling eastwards via the magnificent Elbe crossing of the canal.
Little commercial shipping is a pleasant signal for pleasure boating, and so it can be said that "our group" is almost among itself between Magdeburg and Lauenburg. There are hardly ever more than a handful of encounters with commercial shipping per day.
For the "great trek" of sports skippers from west to east, towards Berlin, Brandenburg and "Meck-Pomm", i.e. the rush on the "Great Loop", the Elbe is merely the western tangent. If possible, it is travelled downstream, from the Magdeburg waterway junction towards Dömitz, where it enters the Müritz-Elde waterway. But sometimes skippers are also drawn to Hamburg, and so we want to give a few useful tips for the tidal Elbe below the Geesthacht lock as far as Hamburg.
It's easy to calculate that even we Hamburgers can travel faster from Hamburg to Magdeburg via the Elbe side canal and Mittelland canal than uphill via the Elbe: It is 247 km via the Elbe and 213 km via the canals. Although the canal route is annoying and contains four additional locks and a hoist, there is no current "against" it.
At a cruising speed of 12 km/h, the canal route takes 18 hours, plus four hours for the locks, making 22 hours. On the Elbe at 8 km/h over ground it takes 31 hours. 13 hours longer sailing time, which means around 60 litres of diesel for our "Troll" ... So we don't need to do any more calculations!
The route then follows the Elbe Lateral Canal and Mittelland Canal towards Magdeburg. The Rothensee connecting canal leads from the Mittelland Canal to the Elbe via the Rothensee lock. The lock was built in a specially dug canal parallel to the old, decommissioned ship lift as part of the construction of the new Magdeburg waterway interchange.
At the southern end of the connecting canal, we pass the construction site of the "Magdeburg low-water lock". From spring 2012, it will ensure that the lower parts of Magdeburg's harbours with the canal harbour and harbour basins 1 and 2, including the connecting canal, are always kept at a target depth of 2.80 m, regardless of the water level of the Elbe. The lock would only be in operation when the water level of the Elbe is low, but would otherwise remain open.
The connecting canal flows into the Elbe at kilometre 333.6 LU. Now there are only just under seven kilometres of river left to the entrance to the Magdeburger Zollelbe. The Herrenkrug rock has to be passed. You can feel the increasing pressure of the current, and a glance at the plotter brings certainty: only 3 to 4 km/h over ground, i.e. 8 to 9 km/h current from the front.
The Zollelbe is a cul-de-sac around one kilometre long, at the end of which is the "Magdeburg Marina". This harbour is not a beauty, but its comprehensive service and proximity to Magdeburg city centre make it the first choice in the state capital of Saxony-Anhalt: petrol station with super and diesel, water and electricity at the floating jetties with comfortable jetties, acceptable sanitary facilities (unfortunately without washing machine and dryer!), 20 t crane, boat and engine service as well as a well-stocked spare parts and accessories shop.
The Allee-Center, a large shopping centre, is just over a kilometre away from the harbour. Magdeburg Town Hall, which is well worth seeing, with its copy of the Magdeburg Horseman (you wouldn't know it from looking at it!), is just a few steps away. The cathedral, Germany's first Gothic church, is also just a few minutes' walk away.
However, Magdeburg's "big hit", and for me alone worth the trip, is the Hundertwasser House "The Green Citadel" on Magdeburg's main street "Breiter Weg", in the immediate vicinity of the state parliament and cathedral square. It was only five years after the death of the controversial artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser that this extraordinary building was completed posthumously on 3 October 2005 according to his plans.
The colourful, multifunctional building is considered to be an "oasis for humanity and nature in a sea of rational houses" and his "most beautiful and best building". In addition to 55 unconventional flats, it also houses offices, shops, a hotel and a theatre. 134,000 entries on Google under the keyword "Grüne Zitadelle Magdeburg"! There's only one thing to do: go and see it!
The Elbe down to the valley. The huge trough in which the Mittelland Canal crosses the Elbe (Elbe-km 339.6) quickly appears before us. With a total length of 918 metres, this canal bridge is the longest in Europe. The actual river bridge, the part of the trough that spans the Elbe, measures 228 metres. The rest lies on land as a foreshore bridge.
The river pushes us through flat land and is quite tiring. The backdrop of Tangermünde, which suddenly emerges from this nothingness, awakens the crew's spirits: the tower of St Stephen's Church and the chapter tower of the castle are the first signs of the medieval town.
At km 399.2 LU, the route enters Tangermünde harbour - on the starboard side is the magnificent town backdrop with the waterfront promenade in front of it and the well-preserved town wall. At the southern end of the harbour basin are the jetties of the hospitable Tangermünde Water Sports Club ; 100 berths in total, 12 of which are for guests with boats up to 15 metres in length, which are moored on the starboard side of the club jetty. Water, electricity, sanitary facilities (without washing machine), bicycle hire, playground, faeces extraction system, chemical toilet disposal, all included.
And only 400 metres to Neustädter Tor, one of the preserved entrances to the old town. Kirchstraße and Lange Straße, separated only by a row of houses, lead to (almost) all the medieval sights of this brick and half-timbered pearl. And there are also original gastronomic delights: "Rülpsig und furzig" (burpy and farty) is the order of the day at the knight's feast in the "Zecherei St. Nikolai" (Lange Straße 1) in the former nave of St. Nikolai's Church.
Experience gastronomy at its finest at Kirchstraße 40: "Tablecloths full of chalk dust, cheese feet with shoe soles, horse droppings from the feed molle and cobblestones from the Roßfurt" may not be a gourmet recommendation at first glance, but they make for an unforgettable experience in the rustic atmosphere of the "Exempel Gaststuben". That's a promise! So plan at least two days for Tangermünde!
Arneburg, say the people of Arneburg, suffers from its proximity to Tangermünde. In fact, there are only 18 kilometres of river between the two towns, which is of course far too little for a one-day stage. So the little town is often left behind in the truest sense of the word. Unfortunately, the very solid marina run by the town does little to change this. 40 guest berths with water and electricity for boats up to 15 metres in length on a floating jetty with outriggers are ample - and far exceed demand.
And the boat refuelling station with diesel and super often only encourages many skippers to bunker, but not to stay. The harbour office and sanitary facilities are located in the nearby "Strandperle". Half-timbered houses, the old market, the Romanesque town church of St George and lots of tranquillity do not shine as brightly as the star of Tangermünde.
And so, after Tangermünde, the skippers travelling downstream often make their next overnight stop in Havelberg. Although this is also "only" 35 river kilometres, the next port, Wittenberge, is another 32 river kilometres away. And 70 kilometres a day (with a displacer!) is really not something you need to do on holiday.
Havelberg it is. As the name suggests, Havelberg is on the Havel and not on the Elbe. So you leave the Elbe at km 422.8 RU, enter the lock canal and reach the old episcopal town via the Havelberg lock around three kilometres from the Elbe. The imposing cathedral sits enthroned on a hill above the Havel. The ascent is rewarded with a magnificent view over the town and the Havel valley.
First choice is the Havelberg marina And since Havelberg is really buzzing with water tourism (around 1,350 guest boats per season), the harbour master couple Dagmar and Klaus-Dieter Klostermann always had plenty to do to help the incoming guests.
Current information suggests that the two "souls of the harbour" will have to give up their jobs this season due to health problems. Hopefully the operator will then find worthy successors!
The harbour offers (almost) everything: 40 guest berths for boats up to 15 m in length on floating jetties, water and electricity, sanitary facilities, washing machine and tumble dryer at the nearby campsite, faeces extraction system, chemical toilet disposal, bike hire, playground, WiFi and proximity to the town centre with supply options (just under 10 min.) My restaurant tip for Havelberg: the Ristorante "Bella Vista" with a beautiful terrace directly opposite the cathedral (Domplatz 2).
From Havelberg to Wittenberge: The "Mauseloch" at Elbe kilometre 426.5 to 427.0 has caused many a careless skipper to run aground unexpectedly. The notorious sandbank lies in a 90-degree bend on the left bank.
Entering the harbour of Wittenberge (km 454.9 RU). Head starboard into the town harbour and above the railway and road bridge into Lake Karthan. At the harbour entrance on the port side is the Sports boat harbour Nedwighafen. There are 15 guest berths with no length limit on a solid floating jetty with outriggers or alongside on the inside. Water and electricity on the jetty. The sanitary facilities (without washing machine) are located in the restaurant "Zum Fährmann" in the harbour. There is a filling station with diesel and petrol on the quay wall of the harbour basin.
There's no question that the harbour offers a friendly atmosphere and the mooring fees of 1 euro/m are within the usual range. And the harbour master offers a bread roll service. But 70 cents for 1 kW of electricity and 70 cents for 50 litres of drinking water are steep, 2 euros for a shower and 2.60 euros for a bag of rubbish are simply outrageous. It is also incomprehensible why, for years now, a passenger ship that has been out of order has been allowed to misuse the transverse jetty with the faeces extraction station as a berth. In any case, no pleasure craft can reasonably reach the station.
The town is not exactly captivating: in addition to vacancy and decay, there are the usual swank buildings of the post-reunification era, but also some beautifully restored town houses. The "Brauhaus Alte Oelmühle" with restaurant, brewery, ballroom, beach bar and café in the Uferturm tower in the north of the city harbour is a successful restoration of the old warehouses and perfect for chilling out.
Between Cumlosen and Schnackenburg, the Elbe left the territory of the GDR until 3 October 1990. From here, the Elbe was a German-German border river until shortly before Lauenburg (km 566). In the former harbour of the GDR border troops in Cumlosen (km 469.5), the Boostsclub Cumlosen operates a jetty with five guest berths for boats up to 15 m in length. Electricity at the jetty. If you are looking for peace and quiet, this is the place for you, as the town is just under two kilometres away. There are showers and toilets in the clubhouse behind the dyke (200 metres). The old watchtower of the GDR border guards still stands on the dyke: nostalgia or a reminder?
Schnackenburg, just five kilometres below Cumlosen, was the last West German town before the border until reunification. It was a "zonal border area" that depended on "zonal border funding" but was still doomed to die.
Things didn't get any better with reunification: the subsidies were withdrawn and from then on trickled down as "Aufbau Ost" a few kilometres further east. Schnackenburg is a prime example of the resulting funding gap and is well worth a visit for precisely this reason: no petrol station (!), a kiosk for supplies, two restaurants and the "Borderland Museum" (Markt 3), which is well worth a visit.
That was it. Oh yes, and of course the jetty facilities of the Schnackenburger Bootsfreunde club on the south-west bank of the harbour: water and electricity at the jetty, toilets and showers in the clubhouse (150 m towards the village).
The "bad place" is once again a treacherous sandbank on the left bank a good 2 km below Schnackenburg (km 477). So stay on the right bank!
Another GDR watchtower on a high dyke: we can see the entrance to Lenzen harbour (km 484.6 RU). Since last year, "Breeser Konsum GmbH" has been trying to revitalise the jetty here. The few boats belonging to the local Motor Yacht Club Lenzen are "not doing it". So the facility is to be made afloat with services (water, electricity, shower, WC, washing machine, tumble dryer, bike hire, bread roll service) and with good food in the "Gaststätte Sportboothafen". We are keeping our fingers crossed ...
"Welcome to Gorleben". Guests are not greeted as warmly as in this gem of a harbour (km 493.0 LU) everywhere. "The community is behind the harbour," reports harbour master Hans-Martin Popko. "Everyone wants our guests to feel at home." Not difficult in this harbour, in this natural environment.
Even the approach is a pleasure: the approximately 1 km long Gorleben hook (km 493.0 LU) leads directly to the landing stage with convenient jetties. However, the Elbe must have enough water. At low water, the entrance and harbour are only 0.90 m deep. Boats up to 12 metres in length can moor at the jetty (water and electricity).
Sanitary facilities are available at the harbour office. The "Kaminstube" in the harbour enjoys a good reputation. Quite different from the "Brennelementlager Gorleben GmbH", operator of the notorious "interim storage facility", which is only around 2 km from the harbour.
"Dömitz, the gateway to Mecklenburg", entrance to the Müritz-Elde waterway. Much has been written about it since reunification: The rapid reconstruction of the Dömitz lock, which had been destroyed by the GDR, made it possible to travel freely to MeckPomm as early as May 1992. Anyone staying overnight moored either at the Dömitz yacht club jetty (below the lock) or at the water hiking centre (above). It was simple, but okay.
As a new highlight, the "Dömitzer Hafen Hotel" was opened in a renovated harbour warehouse in summer 2009. And with it the jetty in front of the hotel, the Elbe harbour Dömitz. 16 guest berths on the solid floating jetty with walk-in jibs for boats up to 15 metres in length, water and electricity, perfect sanitary facilities in the hotel, washing machine and tumble dryer! Two restaurants and a panorama café with sensational views of the Elbe and Elde.
Almost Mediterranean flair in the beach bar with pool, sand, palm trees and beach chairs. Skipper's heart, what more could you want? The supermarket is 300 or 500 metres away. And, of course, on the western edge of the village, still well preserved, is the Dömitz Fortress and awaits your conquest (1.5 km from the harbour). Dömitz should not be missed on an Elbe cruise!
This also applies to Hitzacker, although the public sanitary facilities are actually unacceptable for harbour guests once the first coach has passed through. The town is well worth a visit with its old half-timbered houses, rumpled cobblestones and still well-preserved medieval townscape.
The entrance to the harbour (km 522.3 LU) was dredged last year, so harbour master Horst Morgenstern is hoping for 2.50 m at medium water level for a long time. You are moored at the floating jetty with water and current in front of Heckdalben and have to watch out for the sometimes strong cross-current caused by the Jeetzel, which flows into the Elbe here, when mooring. There are catering facilities and restaurants near the harbour.
The Neu Darchau municipal harbour (km 536.4 LU, 8 guest berths up to 12 m in length, water, electricity, sanitary facilities) and three clubs at the rear end of Alt Garge harbour (km 543.3 LU) offer extremely quiet guest berths in a rural setting. Don't lose your nerve at the entrance to Alt Garge.
The hook drags on, but the three club facilities are sure to come, on the port side in this order: Bootskameradschaft Feuerwehr Alt Garge (at least 4 guest berths up to 13 m, water, electricity, sanitary facilities), Wassersportverein Alt Garge (at least 1 guest berth up to 10 m, electricity, washing facilities and WC), Segelsportverein Alt Garge (6 guest berths up to 12 m, water, electricity, sanitary facilities). The nearest restaurant "Korfu" is 1.8 km away, the nearest supermarket is 6 km away.
Towards Alt Garge, the jetty of the Bleckeder Bootsfreunde (km 550.0 LU) is almost a "fairground". The harbour is extremely popular with boaters. It is also a great facility, hidden 800 metres from the Elbe river in the quiet harbour of Bleckede. Floating jetty with accessible jibs for boats up to 12 metres in length, electricity, water from a tap with a long hose (hose trolley provided). Sanitary facilities in the clubhouse. Diesel station just before the jetty. Embedded in rustic Elbe valley meadows, the place is not spectacular, but it is certainly "cosy".
The entrance to the Boize (km 559.5) after Boizenburg is not to be missed: There is a small, no longer active lighthouse on the headland between the Elbe and the Boize. Up the Boize, past the former shipyard, you reach the jetty of the Boizenburg boating club after 1.5 km. 8 guest moorings with no length limit.
Water and electricity on the floating jetty with accessible jibs, sanitary facilities including washing machine and tumble dryer in the clubhouse. 500 m to the old village centre, which was "renovated" with a lot of money after reunification and now has charm again. Reconstruction East ...
The people of Lauenburg can't laugh about it. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall, things have been going downhill for them, and in many places the solid renovation of the historic old town has been replaced by cheap façade dazzling with brushes and paint. Seen from the outside, namely from the Elbe, this has not detracted from the magnificent backdrop, but up close the imitation façades are profane.
Marina Lauenburg (km 569.2 RU) is located in the harbour entrance on the port side directly above the road bridge at the mouth of the Elbe-Lübeck Canal. There is space for 20 guest berths for boats up to 18 metres in length on the floating jetties with accessible jibs. Water and electricity at the jetty. The sanitary facilities, which were renovated last year and also have a washing machine and tumble dryer, are a feast for the eyes.
Harbour manager Yildiz Frühauf looks after the well-being of her guests. In addition to the small café and restaurant "Skippertreff", she also serves the diesel station and provides bread rolls and newspapers in the morning on request. It is 700 metres to the entrance to the old town at "Rufer" and 1.5 km to the nearest supermarket in the upper town or in Hohnstorf.
In the wide and sheltered round Artlenburg harbour (km 574.5), three clubs are based alongside the "Marina Artlenburg" community harbour (10 guest berths up to 15 m): The Artlenburg Sailing Community (at least 1 guest berth up to 13 metres),
the Artlenburg Boat Club (at least 2 guest berths up to 15 metres) and the Artlenburg Sailing Association (at least 4 guest berths up to 15 metres). Water, electricity and sanitary facilities in all facilities: either your own or those at the large campsite on the banks of the Elbe. Washing machines and tumble dryers are now also available here. Restaurant and all amenities in the village (600 m).
Only discovered by us in recent years, the Tespe sports boat harbour (km 579.3), and here the jetty of the water sports club, is one of the most well-kept refuges on this stretch of the Elbe. Cosy and sheltered in the foreshore of the dyke, spotlessly clean sanitary facilities in the small clubhouse behind the dyke, water and electricity at the jetty.
And you can also walk to Tespe: bakery 1.2 km, supermarket 1.5 km, "Fährhaus Tespe" 2 km. I know that some skippers are annoyed by the untrusting sight of the Krümmel nuclear power plant on the other bank of the Elbe. But firstly, you can't see it from the jetty, secondly, it's currently shut down and thirdly, it's likely to stay that way.
It is only 43 kilometres along the Elbe from here to the City Sporthafen Hamburg (km 622.5). But you shouldn't just set off after breakfast: just 6 kilometres below Tespe is the Geesthacht lock and below it the Elbe as a tidal area.
As economical displacement drivers, we should therefore make sure that we travel towards Hamburg when the water is low, i.e. only after the Geesthacht flood. This saves time and money. If you don't know tidal waters, you need to know: Even if the Elbe is actually flowing towards the North Sea, the tidal current completely reverses the "direction of flow" and turns a downward journey into a hard slog.
If you lock at or shortly after high tide in Geesthacht, you have the strongest ebb current on your side and just under 6 1/2 hours to cover 37 kilometres of current to St. Pauli Landungsbrücken in Hamburg before the current tips and turns against you.
The Geesthacht lock, however, is unpredictable with its waiting times. Anything from zero to two hours is possible. Unfortunately, you don't get any information about this; the lock staff don't respond to VHF calls (channel 22) from pleasure craft at all or with the terse comment: "Wait for the call over the loudspeaker".
At least there is now a waiting jetty for pleasure craft in the upper water on the left bank of the lock canal, although this can only be approached safely up to a maximum length of 10 metres due to the dolphins in front. Larger boats have to moor at free single dolphins, which are actually intended for commercial vessels, or circle in the outer harbour. The waiting jetty is also popular with the water police: I have experienced two inspections during the last four visits ...
But at some point, you are also smuggled into Geesthacht and, as a thank you for your exemplary patience, you are given a powerful shower of Elbe water at the lower gate, which pours out of the steel structure as you pass through the lifting gate.
But then we "fly" towards Hamburg, pass lots of marinas, which are not included in this story, and have to remember to keep to the right bank at Elbe-km 608.5 (Bunthäuser Spitze) and enter the Norderelbe. To the left of the fairway separation we enter the Süderelbe. However, this does not lead directly to the city centre.
The Norderelbe is heavily diked and highly unattractive for the first ten kilometres. Then the mighty Norderelbe bridges (km 619): As soon as you pass under them, the typical choppy water of the Port of Hamburg begins as if at the push of a button. And this will not let us go until we reach the City Sports Harbour, but rather increase: Churned up by launches, excursion steamers and shipping, the waves are reflected hundreds of times by the walled or jettied harbour quays and find no peace.
In this "Kürmel" we pass Hamburg's new harbour city and, at its western tip, the city's "new landmark", the "Elbphilharmonie", or what has been completed of it so far. A little to starboard and we have reached our destination, the City sports harbour Hamburg (km 622.5).
Harbour master "Robby" Rottmann will direct you to a free box on the floating jetty with outriggers, water and electricity. If not, simply look for a free box - even at the risk of the harbour master assigning you another one later ... But at some point you too will be moored - and the whole of Hamburg will be at your feet.
WHAT SKIPPERS NEED TO KNOW
Traffic regulations The Inland Waterways Regulations apply on the Elbe from km 0.0 to km 607.50 (Oortkaten). From km 607.50 (Oortkaten) to km 639.0 (Tinsdal) the Harbour Traffic Regulations of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg apply. Below km 639, the maritime shipping lane regulations.
Driving licence Pleasure craft licence inland within the scope of the Inland Waterways Regulations, pleasure craft licence inland or sea within the scope of the Hamburg Harbour Traffic Regulations, pleasure craft licence sea within the scope of the Maritime Waterways Regulations.
Travelling speed There is no speed limit on the Elbe within the scope of the Inland Waterways Ordinance (in this case from Magdeburg to Oortkaten). In the area of the Port of Hamburg, a maximum speed of 12 kn (22 km/h) is permitted.
Shore designation The bank designation follows the direction of flow of the Elbe. When travelling downstream, the right bank (RU) is to starboard (red buoys) and the left bank (LU) to port (green buoys). When travelling uphill, the RU is on port and the LU on starboard.
Kilometres The Elbe is marked in the direction of flow. Km 0.0 is at the Czech border crossing at Hrensko. The Elbe is described here from km 327 (Magdeburg Zollelbe) to km 622.5 (City Sporthafen Hamburg).
Fairway depth sections The fairway depths of the Elbe are published daily by the WSD Ost at www.elwis.de. The information refers to the following officially defined depths (number = route number):
5 mouth of the Saale to Rothensee downstream canal (km 290.7 to 332.8)
6 Rothensee downstream canal to Niegripp (km 332.8 to 343.9)
7 Niegripp to Mühlenholz (km 343.9 to 422.8)
8 Mühlenholz to Dömitz (km 422.8 to 502.3)
9 Dömitz to Lauenburg (km 502.3 to 569.3)
Boat refuelling stations
- km 327.2 RU Magdeburg, Zollelbe marina. Diesel (D), petrol (B). Tel. 0391-56 83 90.
- km 403.7 LU Arneburg, marina. D, S. Tel. 0162-1 93 19 30.
- km 454.9 RU Wittenberge, Nedwiganger marina. Diesel, petrol. Tel. 03877-7 51 25 or 0152-09 08 08 56.
- km 550.0 LU Bleckede, Verein Bleckeder Bootsfreunde. Diesel. Tel. 0582-7 40 or 0162-7 09 79 70.
- km 569.2 RU Lauenburg, Marina Lauenburg in the harbour of refuge. Diesel. Tel. 0171-8 11 21 85.
- km 618.0 RU Hamburg, Billwerder Bay entrance, Seco Dienste + Handel. Diesel. Tel. 040-66 95
- 05 00 or 0171-6 81 31 40.
- km 623.0 RU Hamburg, Johannisbollwerk, Shell-Öle HBS GmbH. Diesel. Tel. 0177-3 06 69 92 or 040-31 13 71.
Cruising guide and charts
