Travelling through the Netherlands: Province of Friesland - By boat through Friesland

Friesland, you are something special. It goes without saying that your own people like you. They have even dedicated an anthem to you. Nea waard dy fêste, taaie bân ferbrutsen, dy't Friezen oan har lân ferbûn - the strong bond that unites the Frisians and their country has never been broken. Beautiful. But the amazing thing is that there is also a bond between you and us, the Germans. We make up around 30 per cent of your guests. Many of them only want one thing: a holiday on the water. And rightly so. Because boating in Friesland is excellent, especially on the "Friese Meren", the Frisian lakes.

They are "worth their weight in gold", Jannewietske de Vries, deputy of the province of Friesland, is quoted as saying on the website of the "Friese Meren-project". The initiative has been sprucing up the lakes very successfully since 2000. Several hundred million euros have been spent so far - on additional berths, comfortable waterways, new routes and much more. The province of Friesland has thus created an extremely attractive maritime destination. The "Friese Meren" and its tributaries and connecting waters cover around 150 km2 of navigable water. For comparison: the Müritz, Germany's second largest lake, measures around 112 km2. So if things get "tight" somewhere in Friesland during the main season, there are plenty of alternative options. The "Friese Meren" are said to have around 35 lakes. We can't visit them all in one week. But we can manage the "classics" - Sneekermer, Tjeukemeer, Slotermeer and Heegermeer.

The starting point of our tour is the lively watersports centre of Sneek. The "Watersportboulevard 't Ges" ( www.ges.nl ), a good distance from the centre of Sneek, was created to make it "gemakkelijker" - easier - for skippers. Today, "'t Ges" is practically synonymous with "water sports". Shipyards, boat dealers and service companies, as well as charter companies, are based here. From "'t Ges" you can quickly reach the Sneekermeer via Houkesloot. If you want to get started straight away after arriving and picking up your boat, we recommend the short walk to the Sneekermeer. There are several Marrekrite moorings to choose from (see box for information on the area). The Greate Griene and Lytse Griene areas, for example, are nice places to moor. We will visit Sneek itself at the end of this round trip.

Admittedly, the Sneekermeer can be very lively. To the north-west, the Prinses Margriet Canal crosses the lake, a large shipping lane that blends in surprisingly well with the leisure activities. Nevertheless, the big ships demand respect. Sailors love the Sneekermeer and enjoy competing in regattas. However, the hustle and bustle of competition eventually comes to an end. And then you have the Sneekermeer and its magic almost to yourself. Like most Frisian lakes, the "Snitser Mar", as it is known in Frisian, is a relic of peat extraction. The coveted fuel was already being cut here in the Middle Ages. Later, in modern times, it was transported away in special tjalken, the skûtsjes.

To this day, this type of ship is as much a part of Friesland as Droge Worst (sausage) and Sûkerbôle (sugar bread). At the Skûtsjesilen, the rustic cargo ships compete against each other. We see them too. White foresails, dark gaff sails, side swords, some of the crew in historical costumes - our berth has the feel of an open-air museum. A word about the national language: Friesland has two, Dutch and "Fries". Officially, the province is not called Friesland, but "Fryslân". The ANWB Waterkaart often uses both languages.

The next day, Terherne is first on our programme. We head for the island village from the south via Heerenzijl and Terkaplester Puollen. A buoyed fairway helps us find our way. Terherne arouses our curiosity because of its nickname: Kameleon. You might expect a rare chameleon breeding centre or at least a reptile zoo - far from it. "De Kameleon" is the name of a well-known Dutch children's book series, the world of which is recreated in "Kameleon Terherne" ( www.kameleonterherne.nl ).

The town offers a number of mooring options. Terherne Haven is located between colourful holiday homes, well supplied and close to the centre. There is a supermarket and plenty of restaurants here. But we still want to get to Akkrum today. The Tusken De Marren marina on Meinesleat is a good place to stay overnight. The advantage for us is that we can be in the centre of Akkrum in less than ten minutes on foot and will be back on the Sneekermeer in no time tomorrow to continue our journey towards the Tjeukemeer. Why Akkrum at all? Friesland undoubtedly has more picturesque towns than this one. But Akkrum is one of the oldest towns in the region, and that makes it feel special. In the centre of Akkrum we come across an inconspicuous watercourse, the old river Trigreppel. People settled between this and the River Boarne around 150 AD. Their settlement site was to become the origin of Akkrum. It later developed into a typical "terpen" village, a residential mound. A church was built on the highest point of the mound. There is still a church there today, the Terptsjerke from 1759. Shopping and eating out is of course also possible in Akkrum.

The next day we leave the Sneekermeer area and sail via Noarder Alde Wei and Jouster Sylroede to Joure harbour. The town has all amenities, a number of restaurants and many places of interest. A pub on the Midstraat promises "Duitse gezelligheid". The menu includes Strammer Max and schnitzel variations, as well as gyros, cheeseburgers and spring rolls. A little further along the Midstraat, near the VVV, we notice a souvenir shop. "Tabaks Fabriek" is written above the entrance. A small colonial goods shop opened on these premises in 1753. It became a global company: Douwe Egberts, known today primarily for its coffee and tea products. The Joure Museum, just 200 metres further along Geelgietersstraat (www.museumjoure.nl), tells you about this and much more.

We are now heading for the Langwarder Wielen. An attractive stretch of water with a number of marinas. Two "MarBoeien", Marrekrite buoy moorings, bob up and down on the northern shore. We pass through Skarster Rien to the Tjeukemeer (Frisian: Tsjûkemar) and moor on the south side of the island of Tsjûkepôlle. There are two other islets in the lake, both of which also have moorings. In the far west, the A6 motorway runs through the lake. We don't notice any of this on Tsjûkepôlle. Thanks to the breakwater, we don't notice the swell either. This is because an unpleasant choppy sea builds up on the Tjeukemeer at just a few wind forces. Although the lake is the largest of the "Friese Meren", it is also relatively shallow - a maximum of 2.20 metres according to the chart, and only in a few places. There are shallows to the south and east, but these are marked. The great attraction of this body of water is its vastness. You can let your gaze wander and your soul come to rest. Too boring? We have something against that. Lemmer, our next destination for the day.

Via Follegeasleat, Grutte Brekken and Streamkanaal, we head straight for Lemmer's tourist lifeline: the Zijlroede. Marina after marina follow one another, but the most sought-after spots are those further along the Kade, between Flevobrug and Oude Sluisbrug. You are, so to speak, at arm's length from the nearest pub, which explains half of the popularity of the boulevard. The other half: Here, in the middle of the old fishing village of Lemmer, it is incredibly cosy. We look at pretty facades, discover pubs and shops. At the Oude Sluisbrug, we mingle with the onlookers and watch the bridge keeper at work.
bridge keeper at work, with a cool treat from the neighbouring ice cream parlour in hand, like most people here. Some people take offence at Lemmer's hustle and bustle, especially when the atmosphere on the neighbouring boat picks up thanks to the beer dispenser. Others don't mind, they put their feet up and enjoy the liveliness.

This is also fun: sunbathing on the IJsselmeer. It is about 700 metres from the Oude Sluisbrug to Lemster beach. There is also a swimming pool there, as well as the Lemmer Beach Club, a nice place to stop for a bite to eat. If you follow the IJsselmeer dyke a further 1.5 kilometres to the west, a UNESCO World Heritage Site awaits you: the Ir. D.F. Woudagemaal. The plant, which was commissioned in 1920, is the largest steam pumping station still in operation in the world. The power of the Woudagemaal is still impressive today. It could pump the entire Sneekermeer empty in just two days. Theoretically, because who would want that (www.woudagemaal.nl).

And the next "pearl" of Friesland is on our agenda: Sloten (Frisian: Sleat). The picturesque town, whose origins date back to the Middle Ages, was once a fortified town, as evidenced by the two water gates. The former town hall, built in the 18th century, houses the Stedhûs Sleat Museum. Its theme is the history of Sloten. High up, under the roof, another surprise awaits: an impressive collection of historical projectors, so-called magic lanterns or "laternae magicae" (www.museumsloten.nl). You can moor, for example, on the southern edge of Sloten, with a view of the "De Kaai" windmill built in 1755. We stay for lunch, have a bite to eat in one of the restaurants here and then set off again. We are curious about the small village of Balk.

Friesland skippers don't necessarily have this small town of 3800 inhabitants on their agenda, probably because it is a little off the beaten track. Balk can be reached via the river De Luts on the south-west bank of the Slotermeer. At the mouth of the river is the Lutsmond marina, a beautiful facility with all-round service. From here it is about a 15-minute walk to the village centre. There are also easy mooring options on the banks of the Luts. Low-going boats (less than 2.15 metres high) can navigate the water beyond Balk to Lake Fluessen. All others, including us, have to turn round in Balk and take the route across the Slotermeer. But for now we stay here.

Balk is nice and quiet during our visit. There are pubs, shops and eye-catchers, such as the former town hall from 1615. The town's name is actually derived from the word "Balken" (beam). A beam was once used to bridge the Luts at this point.

Our next destination for the day is Heeg, which we head for via Slotermeer, De Ie and Wâldseinster Rakken. The highlight of this stage is Woudsend. Before we cross the town, we "float" over the lanes of the N354. This is made possible by an aqueduct that went into operation in 2007. There are five such structures in the south-western "Friese Meren" area. Boat traffic is routed across the road. Waiting times at movable bridges are eliminated, and motorists and skippers have free passage.

Woudsend has the charm of a typical Frisian town. Mooring and catering facilities are excellent. If you want to moor towards the town centre, you can stay on the quay between the aqueduct and the "De Jager" windmill or continue to Jachthaven De Rakken north of the bascule bridge. In both cases, the town centre is just a few minutes' walk away. "De Jager", probably built in 1719, and its alter ego, the presumably even older windmill "'t Lam", are among the attractions of Woudsend. We move on, heading for Heeg. On the approach, the fairway leads past marked buoys in the area of a small island. So stay on the buoy line! Once again, an Eldorado for skippers awaits us in Heeg. Or as it says in an advertising brochure: "one of the most turbulent water sports locations in Friesland".

German titles in the newsagents and pickers with black, red and gold flags served with typical Dutch bitterballen (meatballs) - we immediately realise where the majority of the many guests here come from. Heeg's central location in the "Friese Meren" area (Sneek 18 m, Workum 12 km) and the extensive maritime infrastructure are particularly in its favour. Functionality is complemented by flair, or rather character and soul, which is what characterises so many Frisian towns. Especially those with a remarkable history, such as Heeg. For more than two centuries, the town was the starting point for the export of eel from Fryslân to England. Live eel was transported from Heeg to the metropolis of London on special 18.50 metre long cargo sailing ships, the Palingaken. The era only came to an end in the 1930s. The Houtbouwmuseum De Helling in Heeg (www.dehelling.info) reveals many exciting details about this.

The early bird catches the worm, which to a certain extent also applies to Heeg, i.e. despite the many overnight accommodation options in the town, you shouldn't wait too long to look for a berth, otherwise the best ones will already be taken. Jachthaven Eendracht is located practically in the heart of Heeg, on the islet of It Eilan. A beautiful and comfortable facility. Last but not least, you are in good hands in the Heegerwâl marina directly on the Heegermeer. The city centre is also just a few hundred metres away. There is also a beach adjacent to the Passantenhaven. Almost a "must" in Heeg: try the eel! It tastes particularly delicious, freshly smoked or baked, at Veenstra's Vishal (mooring possible, www.veenstra-vishal.eu).

Our trip through the "Friese Meren" area is coming to an end and we have to head back to Sneek. We want to end our last day of cruising on a parade ground: in the centre of Sneek, on the Kade at the picturesque Waterpoort. From Heeg, we first sail via Johan Frisokanaal, Wide Wimerts and Wijddraai to IJlst. We moor on the urban bank, the most elegant solution for a stopover. IJlst has a pretty townscape and offers a number of places of interest as well as catering facilities. The Nooitgedagt Museum, for example, which commemorates the former Koninklijke Fabrieken J. Nooitgedagt & Zn. Founded in 1865 by Jan Jarigs Nooitgedagt, the company was known far beyond the borders of IJlst for its products, including wooden skates and planes (www.nooitgedagt-ijlst.nl). Wood is also their thing: "De Rat", a 17th century sawmill that is still in operation today (www.houtzaagmolenderat.nl).

We reach Sneek on the small river De Geau. On the outskirts of the town, another aqueduct carries us over tarmac, this time the A7. Another 1 km or so, then the harbour colk with the Waterpoort is just ahead. There, at the Geeuwkade, we find a free space. Sneek once had five water gates ("Waterpoort" in Dutch). The one still standing today dates from 1613 and gives us an idea of how impressive the entire fortification must have once been. Sneek is the only place in Friesland that was fortified with a surrounding wall. Be sure to visit the Fries Scheepvaart Museum. Its focus is not only on the history of Frisian shipping. Sneek's past is also covered (www.friesscheepvaartmuseum.nl).

There are, of course, plenty of shops and restaurants in Sneek. It remains to report on the Grutte ("big") pier. He is said to have been a real man's man, tall and strong as a bear. Unfortunate circumstances turned him into a fierce freedom fighter. He separated friend from foe with a language test: "Bûter, brea en griene tsiis, wa't dat net sizze kin, is gjin oprjochte Fries", in German: "Butter, bread and green cheese, whoever can't say that is not a real Frisian". The Grutte Pier used to then usually rudely transport them to the afterlife. He himself passed away gently in Sneek in 1520. His remains are rumoured to rest in the Martinikerk, while his helmet was moved to the historic town hall. The legendary sword of Grutte Pier - 2.13 metres long and half a metre wide - is guarded by the provincial capital of Leeuwarden in the Fries Museum.
We drive through the centre of Sneek back to the Houkesloot. We have come full circle.