Although other lakes in the Alpine republic are much better known, Lake Traunsee in Upper Austria is the second largest body of water in the country and also the deepest. It is named after the Traun, a tributary of the Danube, which flows through the lake from Ebensee in the south to its outlet in Gmunden in the north. Twelve kilometres long and just three kilometres wide, the picturesque Alpine panorama offers boaters a wide range of opportunities. Thanks to the short distances, destinations can be reached quickly. The area is particularly interesting for visitors with trailer boats, as these can be launched at clubs or public ramps. If you want a mooring for the duration of your holiday, you should book in advance. It is not possible to spend the night in the boat, and from 9 p.m. it is quiet, as sailing is prohibited. There is accommodation for every taste on the lake. The offer ranges from campsites and motorhome pitches to flats, holiday homes and luxury hotels. In the low season, the crowds are manageable, but in July and August it is full. Accordingly, there is a restriction, as combustion engines are not permitted during these months. Some get around this by fitting an additional electric motor.
Otherwise, everything that water sports enthusiasts like is possible on Lake Traunsee. Water skiing or wakeboarding is possible, fishing from a boat is permitted but requires a licence, and you can also dive, sail or surf. There are plenty of options for hungry and thirsty sailors, from snack bars to top restaurants, most with their own jetties. Those looking for peace and quiet can head to cosy anchorages or the south-east coast. There are several places here that are far too deep for anchoring, where boats can moor directly in front of the steep cliffs. It is also worth exploring the villages with their very different characteristics. And if you want to get a breathtaking view of the marvellous landscape, you have to climb one of the peaks, either by cable car or on foot on a beautiful hike.
Need more information? You will find the article "Traumsee Traunsee" with a service section and nautical information about the area in BOOTE issue 11/2020 from 21 October 2020 at newsagents or online in the Delius Klasing Shop.
We set up our base camp in Gmunden, by far the largest town on the lake. In the Frauscher harbour ( www.frauscherhafen.at ) there are three modern flats. Andrea Frauscher-Oberfrank and her service team look forward to welcoming guests. If you can get a berth here, which is more likely in spring or autumn, the former Frauscher shipyard site is an ideal base for exploring the water.
The best way for water sports enthusiasts to get to the centre of Gmunden is by boat. Directly behind the exit of the Traun, which is not navigable, is the jetty in front of the town hall square with several guest berths. The current towards the bridge should be taken into account. Visitors are allowed to moor for three hours and can visit the old town and the lakeside promenade with its many restaurants. The impressive paddle steamer "Gisela" is also moored at the boat station here. Built in 1871 with a 52 metre long hull made of riveted steel plates, it is one of the oldest paddle steamers in the world. The oscillating compound steam engine can be observed from the deck during the journey. The trip is therefore a special treat for those interested in technology.
The Dominik Huber boat hire company is also located on the promenade ( www.bootsvermietung-
gmunden.at ). As with all landlords on Lake Traunsee, in addition to paddle or pedal boats, there are only boats with electric drives, including some Frauscher 650 Alassio. Right next door, the Baumgartner confectionery shop offers delicious treats and its own jetty. The nearest possibility for mooring is directly behind the pavilion in front of the esplanade on a stone pier with rings.
Need more information? You will find the article "Traumsee Traunsee" with a service section and nautical information about the area in BOOTE issue 11/2020 from 21 October 2020 at newsagents or online in the Delius Klasing Shop.
The Union Yacht Club Traunsee ( www.uyct.at ). You must ask for free guest places. There is a public slipway next to it. Directly in front of it is the picturesque Ort Castle on an island in the lake, which is connected to the mainland by a bridge. The original moated castle has existed since at least the year 909 and, after a very eventful history, has been owned by the Federal Forests since the end of the First World War. It is well worth exploring the grounds and visiting the catering facilities here.
If you want a marvellous view of the lake and the city, you can take the cable car ( www.gruenberg.info ) up the Grünberg. However, you should take your time to do this, as the trip is only really worthwhile if you also explore the treetop walk (costs extra) with its magnificent views and stay longer on the mountain, where you will find a very good infrastructure. This also includes the Grünbergalm ( www.gruenbergalm.at ), which offers home-style cooking as well as rooms for overnight stays.
After Schloss Ort, a little further to the west is Toscanapark and immediately afterwards the Gmunden lido with a bar on the jetty, where guests are allowed to moor. In front of it there is a marvellous anchorage with a sandy bottom, ideal for swimming, sunbathing or a picnic on board. The transition to Altmünster is barely noticeable. After the solar bath is the sailing club with good cuisine. If you want to moor here for a meal, you have to ask. After Camping Traunsee ( www.camping-traunsee.at ), there is plenty to choose from right on the shore. One of these is the restaurant Die Strandung. Mooring is possible on request at the local water ski school. Next door, the Fischerweg ends in another large municipal slipway. Right next to it in Fischerbucht, which can be seen from afar thanks to its striking boathouses and jetties, there are a number of catering establishments. In addition to the Steg restaurant and Pizzeria Valentino, you can also sample delicious grilled fish in the fish frying hut run by the local professional fishermen. Mooring is possible directly at the jetties if there is still space available. Anglers can also get their fishing licence here from professional fisherwoman Maria Trawöger.
The sandy bottom at the southern end of the bay in front of the Hollereck nature reserve is ideal for a refreshing dip in the cool water or sunbathing and is perfect for anchoring. After a few private boathouses, Strandcamping Traunkirchen ( www.strandcamping-traunkirchen.jimdofree.com ). If you are travelling with a camper van or tent, you can launch smaller boats at a natural ramp and find a diving centre here.
Just 500 metres further south, the jetties of Marina Traunkirchen begin. Here Boote Stummer ( www.boote- stummer.at ) full service, craning is also possible. The Traunkirchen sailing club is also located here ( www.sc-traunkirchen.at ). In addition to berths for guests, there are also catering facilities. Behind the next cape, the guest jetties of the Spitzvilla ( www.spitzvilla.at ). The restaurant and coffee house serves its visitors directly on the lake.
From here, you soon reach the picturesque little town of Traunkirchen with the Johannesberg Chapel on the summit of the peninsula in front of it, visible from afar. The town was already inhabited in the Neolithic Age. There was also an abbey here before the 9th century. From 1327, the Traunkirchen monastery was run by Benedictines and later by Jesuits. The order was dissolved in 1773. Today there is a handicraft museum here and the building is also used for cultural events. The small town is also home to the luxury hotel Das Traunsee ( www.dastraunsee.at ) with upmarket catering. There is a guest mooring on the south side of the peninsula to the left of the jetty for excursion boats. In addition to the idyllic lido, the Loiddl boat hire company ( www.schifffahrt-traunsee.at ) and Haugeneder ( www.bootzeit.at ) with smaller electric boats. One of the best views of the marvellous lake panorama can be enjoyed from the Kleiner or Großer Sonnenstein south of Traunkirchen. This requires a walk to the respective mountain peak. There is no cable car here.
Need more information? You will find the article "Traumsee Traunsee" with a service section and nautical information about the area in BOOTE issue 11/2020 from 21 October 2020 at newsagents or online in the Delius Klasing Shop.
As you continue southwards to Ebensee, you soon reach the cliffs. The village is a surfing Mecca, as the wind often blows here. Visitors will find a concrete jetty behind the ferry landing stage. The Ebensee sailing club ( www.scebensee.at ) is also happy to welcome guests who spend their holidays here. Enquiries for berths should be made at least 14 days before arrival. A crane and ramp are available. There is a caravan site directly in front of the marina. Surfers will find their destination next door at the Rindbach surf beach at HangOn Kite & Windsurf & SUP ( www.hangon-kiteboarding.com ). In addition to the popular Giovanni's ice cream parlour near the landing stage, the village also has restaurants such as Restaurant zur Post directly on the main street, Bistro 54, Pizzeria Flamingo and others. You can also visit the Ebensee Museum ( www.
museumebensee.at ), a museum of local history that documents life in the Salzkammergut.
It remains to explore the east coast. Towns are a rarity here, as the steep walls of the mountains fall directly into the lake and hardly allow any development. Anchoring is therefore also impossible. Nevertheless, it is ideal for visitors who prefer peace and quiet, as mooring is always possible here. The first destination is the jetty in Karbach, also known as "Cuba" by locals. The restaurant in the hut here was not open when we visited in 2019. However, if you find a spot at the jetty, you can plan a stop for a barbecue. Hikes are also possible from here.
On the way north, there are several places with small jetties, but also small bays where mooring does not seem possible. Here, boaters have often anchored small anchors or rings in the rock faces so that lines can find a foothold. These include places such as the "Hundsgraben", the "Mauer" or the "Steg Eisenau". Some of these places only allow the secure anchoring of a single boat. If the spot is occupied, an alternative must be found. These spots are just as popular at weekends as they are in the high season. In the low season, there is a good chance of finding a secluded spot to relax, especially on weekdays.
If you continue north past the Traunstein, you will soon find some settlement on the lakeshore again. First you pass the jetty of the former Moaristidl snack bar, which closed in 2019. The Neptun diving school is soon clearly visible ( www.tauchschule-neptun.at ). Anyone who wants to explore the underwater world will find competent support here.
This is followed by the Seegasthof Hois'n Wirt ( www.hoisnwirt.at ). There is a popular beer garden with a view of the lake and typical local cuisine. Visitors to the inn can moor on the left behind the large steamer jetty. The next landing stage belongs to the Feriengasthof Ramsau ( www.gasthof-ramsau.at ). Traditional home cooking is also served here. Visitors can lie down on the sides of the steam jetty.
The next guest jetty awaits at the Landhotel Grünberg ( www.gruenberg.at ). It is not possible to moor at the neighbouring water ski school. The Hotel Grünberg offers accommodation and home-style cooking from the region. After a short trip, the circumnavigation of Lake Traun is complete and the Frauscher harbour in Gmunden is reached again. If you plan a whole holiday week or more here, you will have enough to do to explore all the destinations and enjoy the wonderful Alpine panorama.
Need more information? You will find the article "Traumsee Traunsee" with a service section and nautical information about the area in BOOTE issue 11/2020 from 21 October 2020 at newsagents or online in the Delius Klasing Shop.