The king of the skies majestically spreads his wings, rises from the dead tree stump from which he had just eyed us suspiciously, and glides directly in front of our bow just above the water to the other shore. What a sublime sight! We can hardly believe our luck. Little did we realise that this was just the first of many eagles that awaited us around almost every bend in the river. They were once thought to be almost extinct. Today, thanks to extensive renaturalisation measures, hundreds of ospreys and sea eagles are once again breeding in the Peene Valley. A paradise for fish, birds and people looking for peace, nature and seclusion - that's what we were promised when we set off from Neukalen yesterday.
Start in Neukalen
The marina in Neukalen is one of five charter bases run by Yachtcharter Schulz. Our charter boat for the week is the "Monique 2", a very spacious 11.50 metre Gruno 37 Excellent. The small marina is idyllically situated at the end of a narrow canal that flows off Lake Kummerow. Colourful boathouses line the shore, a weeping willow sways in the wind above a small jetty - you could stay longer. But we are keen to explore one of the last unspoilt rivers in Germany, so we set off early in the morning. After just two kilometres, we reach Lake Kummerow, which lies before us like a mirror under a grey sky as we leave the narrow Neukalen Peene Canal behind us. It is still early in the season and there is hardly anyone on the water apart from us. From Lake Kummerow, the Peene meanders leisurely for 83 kilometres in a north-easterly direction before finally flowing into the Peenestrom to the east of Anklam. There are no dams or weirs to regulate it; only in urban areas are the banks stabilised. Due to its low gradient of just 24 centimetres, this has never been necessary. During Baltic Sea floods or strong easterly winds, the phenomenon of the Peene flowing "backwards" can be observed.
Rare bridge openings and no waiting areas
However, there are still three obstacles on our trip: the infrequent opening times and long distances between the bascule bridges in Demmin, Loitz and Anklam require precise planning and good timing. Because we want to be in Demmin at lunchtime and we are not in the mood for fish in the morning, we skip the "Aalbude" restaurant at the outflow of the Peene from the lake. At a different time of day and later in the season, you have to watch out for the crossing passenger ferry and be lucky to get one of the moorings alongside. What follows is a section where it is hard to believe at times that we are still in Germany. The river meanders through an extensive marshy area with mangrove-like vegetation on the banks. An angler dozes on his small boat in a side arm. Dragonflies flit through the reeds.
We reach Demmin far too early. The bridge doesn't open for another hour. We had hoped to be able to take a lunch break before the bridge and relax and wait for it to open. But there is no real waiting area here, as we know it from lock areas. So we have to travel up and down the river until the bridge opens. On the phone, the harbour master of the marina behind the bridge tells us that he has no more space for us. We moor at the quay wall behind the bridge to at least fortify ourselves for the onward journey. However, the planned shore leave is cancelled. The bollards are so far apart that we can't safely moor the boat. So we change our plans: in Loitz we are assured of a berth for the night. We just have to be there in time for the bridge opening at 3.30 pm.
The Amazon of the North
The lower reaches of the Peene begin at Demmin. Two tributaries that join here cause the river to swell to twice its width. The bends become wider and wider. Here it becomes clear how the Peene got its nickname "Amazon of the North". The Peene Valley is the largest contiguous lowland moor area in Central Europe. The unspoilt river landscape with its marshy floodplains, pools, ponds and lakes is a refuge for many rare and endangered plants and animals. Beavers, otters, white-tailed eagles and kingfishers are at home here. A red kite circles overhead. Overgrown peat pits line the river to the left and right - evidence of a time when the river was used commercially. Today, as shallow pools, they are ideal resting and breeding places. When we reach Loitz about 30 minutes before the bridge opens, the wind picks up. Although it displaces the clouds and finally allows the sun to come out, the timing is unfavourable. Unfortunately, we are once again faced with the problem that there are no waiting facilities on this side of the bridge. And so, once again, all we can do is drive up and down until the green light comes on.
The Banksy from Loitz
On the other side of the bridge, we initially moor alongside directly under the large warehouse, as agreed by telephone with the harbour master. But the wind is too strong and the night will be uncomfortable. So we park in the sheltered harbour basin. The Sports boat marina in Loitz and the old railway station building were lovingly restored a few years ago. Deckchairs in front of the warehouse invite you to enjoy a sundowner in the evening sun. But we make our way into the town. Some time ago, Loitz hit the headlines with a new attraction. A local artist has set himself the task of brightening up the dreary grey-brown of many abandoned and dilapidated houses in the village and has left paintings on the walls of the houses and in boarded-up windows everywhere. A free and really impressive colourful open-air gallery that is not to be missed. When we set off the next morning, the promised sun was a long time coming. We have 46 kilometres and no bridges ahead of us to Anklam. With no time pressure, we set off on what is perhaps the most beautiful section of the Peene.
Precinct information
Charter: Yachtcharter Schulz, based in Waren an der Müritz, operates a network of bases in Waren, Röbel, Granzow, Neukalen, Barth and Kröslin, covering five areas between Berlin, the Mecklenburg Lake District and the Baltic Sea. The fleet consists of around 170 houseboats and motor yachts up to 15 metres in length, accommodating up to 12 people. Many of the boats and areas can be sailed without a pleasure craft licence. Contact: www.charter-schulz.de An der Reeck 1a, 17192 Waren (Müritz) Tel.: 03991/12 14 15
Boat: The Gruno 37 Excellent offers space for four people in two double cabins. Length: 11.30 metres, width: 3.75 metres. Equipment: Galley with multi-burner hob, refrigerator, a wet room with washbasin, WC and shower, another WC with washbasin and separate shower, heating, outside steering position under completely lockable tarpaulin with seating area, bow and stern thruster
Precinct: To operate a boat on the Peenestrom and Achterwasser rivers, you need an inland navigation licence and a sea navigation licence. There are no traffic jams, weirs or locks along the Peene. However, the opening times of the three bascule bridges in Demmin, Loitz and Anklam must be taken into account when planning your trip. As almost the entire length of the Peene Valley is a nature reserve, there are considerable restrictions on navigating the oxbow lakes and peat bogs as well as entering the shore areas: 99 per cent are closed. There are few marinas. Some waterway rest areas are equipped with moorings for smaller boats. On the Peenestrom and Achterwasser, you must strictly adhere to the fairway buoyage.
Literature: Kartenwerft Binnenkarten Atlas 1: Oder und Haff mit Peene - 2025, 49.90 euros, ISBN 9783944082493, www.hansenautic.de NV Gewässerkarten Binnen Atlas 3 - Nördliche Oder und Peene, 44.99 euros, ISBN 9783910644793, www.nvcharts.com
