Lars Bolle
· 10.09.2026
This article was produced in collaboration with Bauhaus Nautic
The engine is running, there’s fuel on board and the first trip can begin. However, it’s not quite that simple when starting up the boat for the first time or after the winter lay-up. Moisture, temperature fluctuations and long periods of inactivity often take their toll on parts that receive little attention in day-to-day use. Defects in the control system, the bilge system or equipment that must function in an emergency are particularly critical.
The most sensible way to carry out the pre-launch check is to start from the outside, work your way through the on-board systems and finish with the paperwork and a final walk-around before setting off. To find out how the engine itself should be prepared for the season, see our Speciality items.
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The first thing to check is the gelcoat, hull and deck. Superficial scratches are usually just a cosmetic issue. Deep cracks, flaking and damage extending into the laminate, on the other hand, should be assessed before launching and repaired if necessary. They can allow moisture to penetrate the GRP structure.
You should also check cleats, bow eyes, handrails and other fittings subject to stress. A cleat must not move, even when subjected to a strong pull. If it has any play, the screw connection and, where accessible, the backing plate on the inside must be checked. When moored, significantly higher forces are exerted by wind, swell and sudden loads than during a brief pull by hand.
Hatches, windows, drains and existing through-hull fittings also deserve attention. Drains must be clear. The lever on seacocks should move without the need to use force. If you discover any corrosion, cracks or brittle hoses, the boat should not simply be put back in the water; instead, the findings should first be assessed by a qualified professional.
At the helm, turn the steering wheel once from lock to lock. The steering must operate smoothly and without requiring an unusually high amount of effort. Stiffness, clicking noises or noticeable hesitation are not merely minor flaws, as the boat must respond immediately to movements at the helm during harbour manoeuvres or evasive manoeuvres.
For mechanical systems, check the steering cables, connections and the designated lubrication points. Kinks, damaged outer casings and corrosion are warning signs. For hydraulic systems, visible leaks and the fluid level should be checked. If you are unable to determine the cause with certainty, you should consult a garage before your first journey.
A quick look into the bilge will reveal whether water, traces of oil or any noticeable dirt have accumulated there. Water may be caused by rain, a leaky through-hull fitting or a pipe. It is therefore crucial not only to pump it out, but also to identify the cause.
The electric bilge pump must actually pump out water. Carefully pour a small amount of clean water into the bilge and check whether the pump draws in water, discharges it via the designated outlet and then switches off again. If there is an automatic float switch, this should also be triggered. A mere running noise is not sufficient proof of proper function. The Practical test of bilge and drain pumps helps to determine which tasks a pump on board can actually perform reliably.
Moisture and corrosion are common weak points in the on-board electrical system. You should therefore not just check whether the chart plotter, depth sounder and lighting come on briefly. Also check any accessible connectors, fuse holders, battery terminals and earth points. Greenish deposits, loose terminals or brittle insulation must be removed before they lead to voltage drops or failures.
With standard 12-volt lead-acid batteries, the open-circuit voltage provides an initial indication of the state of charge. A value of more than 12.6 volts is often taken as a guide for a fully charged battery. However, the voltage alone does not provide any definite information about the remaining capacity. Older batteries in particular can drop significantly under load.
Next, check all electrical loads individually: position lights and interior lighting, navigation equipment, echo sounder, radio, horn and, where applicable, windscreen wipers. Take particular care when working on shore power systems. Disconnect the connection before having any visible damage checked, and leave repairs to 230-volt systems to a qualified specialist firm.
You shouldn’t just inspect mooring lines from the outside; you should also run your hands through them thoroughly. This makes it easier to spot chafed areas, frayed fibres, stiff patches and damaged splices. Severely damaged lines must be replaced. When there is wind and swell, they have to bear loads that are almost impossible to predict when the boat is moored normally.
Fenders should be firm and have sufficient air in them, whilst still being able to give way. Fenders that are almost flat offer little protection to the hull when mooring. The anchoring gear is also taken out of the box and thoroughly checked: the anchor, chain or rope, swivels, shackles and safety devices. A shackle pin must not come loose of its own accord. For safety devices and connecting elements, the manufacturer’s specifications must be followed.
An anchor is not just an accessory for swimming bays. If the engine fails, it can prevent a boat from drifting into obstacles, onto a rocky shore or into the path of other vessels. The overview also highlights just how important it is to have safety equipment that is accessible and ready for use Safety on board.
Automatic lifejackets must not be returned to the lockers after the winter break without being checked. Open the protective cover in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and check the indicator, the activation unit, the CO₂ cartridge, the straps, the fastenings and the general condition. The cartridge must be undamaged, correctly seated and its weight must match the specified weight printed on it. However, a visual inspection is no substitute for prescribed maintenance. The manufacturer, Secumar, specifies that, to ensure the service life of its lifejackets, inspections must be carried out at least every two years by authorised bodies, and also the BOOTE Guide to Life Jacket Maintenance explains why specialist services and internal controls have different roles.
For motorboats fitted with a Quickstop system, check the red coiled cord for brittleness and damage. Only test the switch in accordance with the engine manufacturer’s instructions and when the situation is safe. The cord must be correctly secured to the rider whilst the boat is in motion. Yamaha also specifies that its emergency stop cord should be worn in such a way that the engine can be switched off should the rider fall.
You should check the condition of the fire extinguisher, its next test date and, for models with a pressure gauge, the reading on the gauge. For powder extinguishers, follow the instructions on the unit and the manufacturer’s guidelines. A fire extinguisher that is stored in a hard-to-reach storage locker or whose inspection is overdue will be of no use in an emergency.
Preparing for the season also involves checking your documents. Check your boat liability insurance: is the correct boat insured, does the agreed sailing area match, and do you have the necessary documentation for trips abroad? If you have taken out comprehensive insurance, check those documents as well. In the case of trailered boats, you should not simply assume that the trailer is covered by the insurance.
Just before launching or setting sail, take one final check round and through the boat. Are the bilge and drain plugs in place? Are documents, keys, lines and lifejackets within easy reach? Is there enough fuel on board? This check takes just a few minutes, but can prevent a minor oversight from bringing your first trip to an end before it has even begun.
Boats - Logbook Christian Tiedt’s book brings together the topics that come to the fore again on board following the seasonal check: navigation rules, navigation marks, mooring lines, the weather, marine radio and how to behave correctly in emergency situations. This handy book is tailored to the day-to-day lives of motorboat operators and serves as a useful reference guide when you need to double-check a rule, a signal or a procedure before setting off.
Practical knowledge for skippers Erwin Angermayr’s book goes beyond pre-season preparation and covers anchoring, manoeuvres under engine power, navigation, weather, marine radio and emergencies. It thus complements the technical checklist by addressing how skippers and crew should act safely whilst at sea. The spiral binding makes it particularly practical for use as an on-board handbook.
Which checks do you think are absolutely essential before the start of the season, and which aspect is most often overlooked on board? Have a chat with us in the comments.

Chief Editor Digital