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Season start specialLast-minute tips from the experts at Pantaenius for the start of spring

Boote Redaktion

 · 20.03.2025

Trigger for frustration during the first test run: flat or faulty on-board batteries. Therefore: check the batteries.
Winter is coming to an end and it's time to get the boat back in the water. Even if time is short, it is advisable to invest a weekend to rule out any risks. Kim Reise from the Pantaenius claims department explains what you should look out for during a last-minute check.
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This article is part of the special season start. All parts:

1. check batteries

Why is it so important?

Flat or faulty on-board batteries are one of the most common causes of frustration during the first test run in spring. A deeply discharged battery can quickly become irreparably damaged.

What needs to be done?

  • Lead batteriesHave they been disconnected in winter and stored in a cool but frost-free place? Then charge them fully before fitting. AGM batteries can withstand deeper discharges better than gel batteries, but they should not fall below 50 per cent.
  • Lithium batteriesIn winter, only charge to around 1/3 to 2/3 of the capacity, as they are unnecessarily stressed in the upper range. Avoid permanent connection to a charger at all costs in order to extend the service life.
  • Spring checkClean the poles, check that the pole terminals are firmly seated and repair any corrosion. If you have installed new consumers during the winter season, you should now check all cable connections and cross-sections: Avoid fire hazard!

2. check the diesel pest

Why is it so important?

When microorganisms grow in the diesel, sludgy deposits form. These can clog filters and injection nozzles and cause the engine to fail. The problem often occurs when condensation has formed in the tank or biodiesel has been refuelled.

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What needs to be done?

  • Refuelling checkIs there an inspection cover on the tank? Then check the tank for water residue and dirt. Does the diesel smell musty or is there a slimy film on the tank cap or the tank itself?
  • Acute case: Siphon off or drain off water and diesel sludge, replace fuel filter and take reserve filter on board. Shock dosing of additives is usually not sufficient.
  • Water separatorIf not already fitted, retrofit. This prevents water from collecting in the fuel system.

3. check the cooling circuit

Why is it so important?

A functioning engine needs a free flow of cooling water. If the system is blocked, there is a risk of serious engine damage due to overheating.

What needs to be done?

  • Check seacocksCheck for damage or fouling (e.g. mussels, barnacles) while still on land and open the valves.
  • Hoses & clampsReplace cracked or porous hoses, always replace corroded hose clamps - (!) always use two clamps.
  • Test in waterIf the engine is running, water must come out of the exhaust immediately (or be visible in the seawater filter). If this does not happen, switch off the engine and check for a blocked seawater filter or blockages in the intake or a defective impeller.
  • Flush outboard motor: A flusher can be used to flush the cooling water after the winter. This prevents dirt from settling permanently and keeps the engine clean from the inside.

4. check the side outlets

Why is it so important?

Seacocks and through-hull outlets are potential weak points for water ingress. Frost can cause damage, especially if water has collected in them over the winter. Be sure to check the tightness of the outlets while still in the harnesses!

What needs to be done?

  • Recognising frost damageOpen and close the valves before adding water, check for cracks or leaks.
  • Scratch testScratch carefully with a screwdriver. If the area appears reddish or crumbly, this indicates corrosion.
  • Maintenance & replacementIn doubt? Better to fit a new valve (or have one fitted). Grease regularly and check for free movement - preferably twice a year, when winterising and winterising.

5. change anodes

Why is it so important?

Sacrificial anodes protect the propeller, shaft, saildrive and other metal parts from corrosion. If they are used up, they no longer work properly - and expensive components can suffer.

What needs to be done?

  • Check conditionAre the anodes stuck, are they largely dissolved or still fully intact?
  • Choice of materialZinc for salt water, magnesium for fresh water. Those travelling in brackish waters often use aluminium anodes as a compromise.
  • Create planNote all anode positions (including those in the cooling circuit) so that no point is forgotten during the next spring check.

6. check outer skin

Why is it so important?

Moisture can penetrate through hairline cracks in the gelcoat. Moisture can damage the laminate in the long term.

What needs to be done?

  • Visual inspectionIs there any damage to the gelcoat?
  • In acute casesSeal hairline cracks, if necessary find out the cause with a specialist
  • Cleaning and polishingAvoid new soiling and protect the surface
  • Check antifouling: Remove barnacle residues, check the condition of the paint and renew. Ensure compatibility with the old coating
  • Folding propeller: if necessary on Check function
  • Anodes: Do not paint over with antifouling

Conclusion

One weekend is enough - if you know what's important. Winterising a boat means more than just getting it out of winter storage and into the water. If you only have one weekend, prioritise the main sources of danger.

This article is part of the special season start. All parts:

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