It's the beginning of May, early season. The sun is already more powerful than at home. But it's still far from hot. In the evenings in Sant Antoni, Ibiza's second largest city, you wonder about the skimpy outfits of some of the mostly younger female tourists. And involuntarily ask yourself: when do you actually become too old for Ibiza? What else can the island offer apart from sex, drugs and a bit of wilted flower power crossed with jet-setting? More precisely: Is the area worth a trip? Or should you head straight over to Formentera if you're in the mood for quiet bays instead of beach clubs and parties?
Sunday morning, at least, it's still quiet. As if the whole of Ibiza is asleep. Collectively hungover. At ten o'clock we are the only crew to set sail. On the "Bohème", a Bali Catspace catamaran. First out of the bay and anchor a few nautical miles away. Test whether the turquoise-blue water is perhaps already at bathing temperature. The answer: it's not! Shivering, we realise that the sea around the Balearic Islands is not yet in summer mode.
Get an impression of the area
Fortunately, you can quickly warm up again in the sun on one of the numerous sunbathing areas on the large two-hull boat - and study the cruising and travel guides a little in the meantime. Let's see how we can best fill the week ahead of us to get as comprehensive an impression of the area as possible.
As small as the Pitiusas archipelago may seem, which includes Ibiza, Formentera and a few smaller, uninhabited rocky islands, time needs to be well utilised. Sundays, for example, are hippie day in Cala Benirrás, where Nina Hagen once got married barefoot. Of course you want to experience that. Ideally lying at anchor, with the sun drumming on the shore as it sets.
An hour before sunset, we find a spot in the bay, albeit only in the second row of anchors. The first is already occupied. We take the dinghy ashore. The beach is well frequented. Not to say full, populated by a young, hip but thoroughly heterogeneous crowd. Quite Ibiza style. There are a few old freaks in between.
A crowd of people has formed at the southern end of the beach. You can hardly miss them. Ecstatic drumming, cheers and wafts of marijuana make the bay even more beautiful for some. So beautiful that after a short time you're not sure whether you're getting stoned from passive smoking or whether the atmosphere is really that beguiling. There's something peacocky here. Bongos instead of Ballermann. And a touch of Woodstock. Make love not war. In any case, the old hippie slogan has lost none of its validity here.
These evening drum sessions are one of the things Ibiza has become famous for. Even though they are no longer officially promoted in many places, they still take place "spontaneously".
Heading north
The next day we stay on a northerly course. In search of the breeze. Maybe there's something up at the cape. With little wind, we pass the Moscarter lighthouse. It stands out with its striking, almost freaky paintwork. The paintwork is almost reminiscent of a giant curly candy cane. Pretty to look at. As is the mountainous hinterland, even if it can't compare with the imposing Tramuntana mountains on the big sister island. Majorca can keep up.
At lunchtime, we drop anchor in a quaint bay near Punta Grossa. There is an unusual grotto there. And a rock structure the likes of which we have never seen before: Twists and turns like a cross-section of a fossilised brain. Unfortunately, it's not an anchorage for the night because it's a bit too exposed. At the end of the day, we therefore land very sheltered between the rock faces of Cala Llonga, which cuts deep into the coastal fringe. With a shallow beach at the head of the bay. In summer, there is a shortage of anchorages here and the excursion boats and ferries have to slalom.
Ibiza shines with positive energy
We launch the dinghy and ask around. A local restaurateur recommends the competition because he is a little behind with the opening of the season. He recommends the "Can Nuts" just round the corner. A restaurant with soul. And staff in a great mood, as it soon turns out. It's noticeable: these "good vibes" on Ibiza. Everywhere. No one has ever served us in a bad mood. Or is this a kind of positive post-Covid effect, that tourists are once again being more appreciated as Ibiza's most important economic factor?
Formentera - the Caribbean of Europe
A new day. This time the breeze is steady and we set course for Formentera. The island is known as the Caribbean of Europe because of its beaches. Unfortunately, we can't make full contact. The cat doesn't sail the height it needs to. It doesn't matter, because otherwise we would be there far too quickly anyway. This is not an area for mile-makers. We take two long strokes and finally land at the northern end of Espalmador. That flat, elongated connecting island between Ibiza and Formentera. Separated from Formentera only by a washed-over strip of sand, it is the most important anchorage in the south. In summer, a large buoy field is set up in front of it. The moorings must then be reserved in good time, according to the cruising guide. In the low season, however, we have free choice and can anchor for free on the finest sand. Within swimming distance of the beach, which with its neighbouring dunes looks more like something imported from Denmark than the Caribbean. More Anholt than Antigua.
You don't need much imagination to visualise what goes on here in summer. We get a foretaste of this when a large, full motorboat pulls up, anchors in the middle of the bay and lets all the neighbouring crews join in a stag party without being asked. It's just a good thing we're not downwind. Music and volume are not to everyone's taste. After all, it's suddenly bedtime in the evening.
After a peaceful night, we set sail for Formentera. Everything on sight, the plotter is only switched on out of habit. We save ourselves the trouble of entering the harbour. Mooring fees for catamarans are not exactly cheap on the Balearic Islands. And the watermaker makes us self-sufficient when it comes to water. What we hadn't considered, however, was the busy ferry traffic.
A spontaneous change of plan
It can upset even a large catamaran; sometimes it rocks quite a bit. Hence a spontaneous change of plan. We actually wanted to go ashore and hire a scooter for an excursion. On the other hand: on a week-long charter, every unsailed day on the water is wasted. So we decide not to come back until the evening.
With a half wind from the south-east, we head towards the west coast. Cala Saona is praised as a beautiful bay. And there is supposed to be somewhere to hire scooters. But that's not true. At least not as long as the only local hotel is closed. We console ourselves with ice cream and coffee in a beach bar.
In the evening, we make a second attempt to anchor off La Savina. The last ferries are just leaving the island. A few more yachts have arrived. But there is still plenty of space. Then: dinghy in the water and clear for shore leave. Unfortunately, a fellow sailor's mobile phone slips out of his pocket. On his birthday of all days. As the phone drops in the middle of the harbour entrance, so does the mood. And the tapas have tasted better elsewhere. Conclusion: La Savina could easily have been done without.
Last stop on the cruise: Espalmador
We make one last stop off Espalmador, then head back to Ibiza. Partly because suddenly masses of jellyfish appear on the shores of Formentera. It's going to be a marvellous space sheet course with a view of the Isla Es Vedrà. This is Ibiza's secret - or rather, uncanny - landmark. It lies just ahead. You would like to linger, but the island is too rugged and forbidding. Perhaps it's for the best.
There are many myths surrounding the rocky island. Early seafarers claimed that the compass needle would swing wildly in its vicinity. Several ships were said to have been attracted to the cliffs in the fog and wrecked. A monk is said to have almost gone mad while meditating on the summit. A giant is said to have held two children captive on Es Vedrà until he suffocated on the sea urchins they gave him. UFOs are also said to have landed here.
Experience the panorama on Ibiza
So let's get out of here! We head further north. We are spoilt for choice when it comes to anchorages. The crew opted for a bit more of an Ibiza feeling and less of a night's sleep: we anchored within sight and sound of the Sunset Ashram. This is an institution when it comes to sunsets. Very hip and not cheap. In return, the view sweeps over two bays at once during the sundowner. A fantastic panorama.
But it's too loud for us to eat here. Our taste buds want peace and quiet and no house music. We continue our stroll along the barren cliffs and end up at the nude beach, Playa Nudista in Cala Escondida. Below the cliff edge is the charming beach bar "Chiringuito". The staff and clientele are all spontaneously friendly and clothed, which is probably due to the time of year. A large sign at the bar reads: All you need is sex. But that's not quite true, otherwise the bar would have gone out of business long ago despite its prime location.
I order a "burger beyond", whatever that is. In any case, it's a surprise when I realise afterwards that it has nothing to do with meat. Nevertheless, it tastes really good. Or has the ambience been so beguiling that the marvelling and raving guests can be served anything?
Mixture of music and the sound of the sea
The sun sinks spectacularly into the sea, with an anchored catamaran and a few chilled sounds to the sound of the sea. And one of the best things: only cheerful faces around us. It's infectious, that special Ibiza flair. It's a spirit all of its own. Different to the other Balearic Islands. Somehow more relaxed.
After a far too short week, the crew all agree that the Pitiusas are a small but beautiful area with plenty of opportunities. There should be something for everyone. However, there is no guarantee as far as the summer is concerned. In July and August it could get a bit too busy, the anchorages scarce and noisy and life a bit too "loca", i.e. crazy. The nickname "party island" has to come from somewhere.
Info for the Ibiza cruise
The precinct:Ibiza, Formentera and Espalmador are known as the Pitiusas, a sub-archipelago of the Balearic Islands. The Greeks called them this because of the abundance of pine forests at that time. The coast of Ibiza is interrupted by smaller sandy calas. Most of the bay shores are built up; you won't find total solitude here.
Charter:We travelled on a Bali Catspace catamaran from the charter company Rumbo Norte Ibiza. The boat costs from 4,780 euros in low season and 10,200 euros in high summer (including final cleaning, bed linen and outboard motor). The fleet in Sant Antoni on the west coast of Ibiza includes two monohulls as well as other two-hulls. Bookable via Master Yachting in Würzburg, master-yachting.com , telephone 0931/46 59 99 99.
Navigation:The coast of Ibiza drops steeply into the water almost everywhere and shallows are rare. Only the passage between Espalmador and Ibiza, the Freu Grande, should be navigated with caution in stronger winds. The sea is then rough.
Wind & weather:In summer, the wind is usually moderate during the day at around 4 Bft from the south to south-west. Stronger winds are brought by the Levante from the east, the Sirocco from the south or the Poniente from the west. As the distances between the anchorages are short, you can move to a sheltered bay at any time.
Literature & nautical charts:"Törnführer Balearen" by Gerd Radspieler, Delius Klasing, 39.90 euros. For shore leave: "Ibiza/Formentera", Dumont, 12.95 euros. Sports boat charts set 9: "Balearic Islands", Delius Klasing Verlag, 64.90 euros.
Five tips for the cruise
1st Cala Benirrás
Beautiful bay in the north-west of Ibiza. Should ideally be visited on Sundays. This is when the famous drum sessions take place. Anyone can join in; be free, be high or just be there. There is a small hippy market for souvenirs by the car park.
2nd Cala Llonga
Except in easterly winds, yachts are very sheltered here between high cliffs. During the day, it can get a little busy because of the excursion boats and ferries. We can recommend the restaurant "Can Nuts". However, you should book a table in good time.
3rd Sunset Ashram
An anchorage can be found directly in front of the trendy club on both sides of the beach. In the evening, you can marvel at the sunset to the sound of DJs. If you prefer it less loud and shrill, stroll a few bays further and secure a spot in the "Chiringuito" beach bar. Or you can sit on the cliffs and enjoy the atmosphere.
4th Puerto del Espalmador
Almost a must on the way to Formentera. The large beach bay in the south of the island exudes a Danish feeling in spring. In summer, there are moorings available (book in advance!). The long beach is not only fun for children. Theoretically, you could swim across to Formentera, but you should definitely refrain from doing so due to the strong currents!
5th Cala Saona
In contrast to the otherwise largely open beaches on Formentera, Cala Saona is a sheltered bay on the west coast of the island that is surrounded by cliffs. Punta Rasa is also home to unique underwater caves. There is also a nice beach bar that invites you to linger with a view over the bay.
