Around 500 years ago, the Portuguese seafaring legend Vasco da Gama dropped anchor in the still uninhabited island world in what is now the Seychelles. More than 100 coral and granite islands, which rise up to 900 metres out of the vastness of the Indian Ocean, belong to the archipelago - a dream for the ship crews of the time, who had months of hardship behind them: Fresh water, coconuts, birds and turtles were in abundance. Conditions like in the Garden of Eden, which fortunately have not changed too much to this day - and which have also magically attracted us. The only difference is that you no longer have to sail halfway around the world to see paradise. Instead, you fly in on a scheduled flight and only change to your own keel when you get there. In fact, there are two keels - because a power catamaran from the charter fleet of "The Moorings" awaits us. We now have a whole week ahead of us!
DAY ONE: After landing, we take a taxi directly from the airport to Eden Island, a man-made island located between the capital Victoria and the international airport in the north-east of the main island of Mahé. In addition to attractive luxury flats and mooring facilities for mega yachts, there is also a marina here with the charter base of "The Moorings". A short time later, we and our luggage are driven along the seemingly endless jetty to our boat in a golf cart.
Every island in the Seychelles has its own distinctive charm. It is worth embarking on an extensive voyage of discovery
"How many of you are there in total?" the cheerful driver asks us. "Just the two of us. Why?" Sam laughs as we come to a halt "Because you've been upgraded. Welcome on board!" With an incredulous grin, we load our bags onto the 51-foot catamaran "Moxie" and divide the hulls of the yacht, which is designed for eight to ten people, between the two of us. After the technical and nautical briefing, we go shopping in the marina's own shopping centre. As it gets dark at 6 p.m. and charter boats are strictly forbidden to sail from then on, we decide not to go out today and round off the evening with a glass of Takamaka rum on the flybridge while dozens of flying foxes glide across the sky, wings flapping.
DAY TWO: The engines start up at 08.45 am. Cast off, our tropical cruise can begin! We leave Eden Island through the buoyed exit and head north towards the Sainte Anne Marine National Park, a small group of islands off the coast of the capital Victoria. It was here that the French began to colonise the remote islands in the Indian Ocean in 1770, mainly with slaves from Africa, who from then on formed the basis of the mixed Creole culture. After some initial snorkelling around the boat, we weigh anchor again and carefully feel our way into the shallow Sainte Anne Channel, finally repeating the anchor manoeuvre off Moyenne Island, well protected from swell and monsoon winds.
Most of the island is rocky and densely overgrown, so I wade halfway around it to explore it, watched by countless crabs clambering nimbly over the rocks in constant escape mode. On land, there is a circular path past giant tortoises, bright red songbirds and historic buccaneer graves. There is also rumoured to be a treasure buried here, well guarded by ghosts. As night falls, the lights of Victoria can be seen in the west under the starry sky. Fish jump around us while the surf thunders in the safe distance. We have arrived in paradise!
DAY THREE: Our destination for today is Curieuse Island, so we enjoy the vastness of the Indian Ocean for a few hours at a leisurely cruising speed of nine knots. Flying fish cross our double bow, a white-tailed tropicbird bobs here and there, and the autopilot proves more than useful.
After passing the islands of Cousine and Cousin, we sail around the west of the second largest island of Praslin and set course for the deep Laraie Baie in the east of Curieuse Island, where we drop our anchor.
An endless number of anchor bays make the Seychelles archipelago a unique area for charters
Polished rocks flank a beach on which two giant tortoises can actually be spotted with binoculars. Full of enthusiasm, I jump into the water with my waterproof photo rucksack and swim across - I can't pass up a rendezvous with these primitive animals. While one of them dozes impassively in the shade, the other turtle eagerly satisfies its hunger with leaves. In days gone by, these good-natured animals were often taken on long sea voyages as "live preserves", but fortunately they are now protected species.
Snorkelling reveals rays, small reef sharks and countless colourful fish. It's just a shame that a huge cloud takes the shine out of the water and makes the blaze of colour fade somewhat. Unlike my back, which shines in crimson red in the evening despite wearing plenty of sun cream.
DAY FOUR: Escape to bed at 5.30 a.m., which is rewarded with a magnificent sunrise. After coffee and a toast, we head to the tiny Île St. Pierre, the Seychelles' advertising icon: granite rocks covered in palm trees, surrounded by shallow turquoise-green water. The island fully lives up to its reputation. On to the next island, La Digue, where "Moxie" moors at the rear end of some of the boats already at anchor. As if strung together on two strings of pearls, more than a dozen boats are soon bobbing in front of the harbour entrance to La Passe. With the dinghy, we almost took the entrance that was not buoyed, which with its underwater rocks would definitely have cost us our propeller. On La Digue, the "wheel of time" seems to mean two wheels: Locals and tourists alike cycle, no matter how short the journey. From here it is not far to the outstanding beaches of Anse d'Argent in the south or to the equally picturesque Cap Barbi in the north of the town.
Get up close and personal with the colourful wildlife of the Indian Ocean
In the evening, we find a restaurant with a view of the hustle and bustle of the harbour. We order octopus curry, the spicy flavour of which goes down perfectly with the local beer "Seybrews". We head back through the avenue of anchored ships, glad that we left the lights on our catamaran for better orientation.
In the middle of the night, the monsoon wakes us from our sleep with heavy rain and strong gusts of wind. After only a few objects have flown through the cockpit, a torrent of water suddenly pours through an improperly closed deck hatch onto the centre of the bunk where my laptop is lying. Shortly afterwards, nature falls silent again - and my computer probably forever.
DAY FIVE: Passing Ave Maria Rock, Bernd steers the "Moxie" north-east towards Coco Island, while I lay my mattress, bed linen and laptop out in the sun to dry. Here, in the far east of the inner Seychelles, is said to be one of the best snorkelling hotspots. And indeed, there are plenty of colourful creatures here, although my great hope of encountering a sea turtle underwater is unfortunately not fulfilled.
Around midday, we pull up the anchor again, we want to go to the north coast of Praslin, more precisely to Anse Lazio, another picture-book beach. On the way, we pass the shallows of Roche Bouquet and Praslin's southern tip, Pointe Cocos, before our Powercat heads up the west coast of the island, always keeping a safe distance from the coral reefs. In the afternoon, we reach Baie Chevalier in the north and finally anchor in front of Anse Lazio against a fantastic backdrop. While skipper Bernd slips back into his fins, I set off for the beach in the dinghy. Two young French girls pose on the white sand for Instagram. Palm trees, turquoise water and granite rocks... In the evening, we double-check that all the hatches and windows are closed. The next monsoon raid can come.
SIXTH DAY: At 06.00 a.m. our engines start up for a long trip across the open sea to Silhouette. The island is considered undeveloped and enjoys special protection as a nature reserve. Halfway across, we are caught in a small rain shower, but the gusts pass us by.
The numerous national parks in the Seychelles are an ideal place for people and animals to relax
After a four-hour journey, we drop anchor off Anse Lascars. A path leads ashore through dense tropical jungle, and it is so hot that I soon regret not having taken more water with me. The undergrowth rustles everywhere, while exotic bird sounds can be heard from the treetops. The sound of the surf is a constant companion, even when the sea is out of sight. Down on the wild beach, with its sharp rocks and coarse-grained sand, a pleasant contrast to all the picture-book beaches, hermit crabs carry their shells. Back in the thicket, water runs down a rock, a feast for every thirsty castaway!
SEVENTH DAY: The last day at sea takes us to Île Thérèse, within sight of the north-west coast of Mahé. Here, all the beautiful South Sea clichés fit again, with palm trees hanging over the beach, pieces of coral in the fine white sand and water in its most beautiful colours. One last dip with the snorkel in the warm waters before we make the final push back to Eden Island. Once Victoria Port Control has been informed of our arrival, we moor safely at the jetty of the charter base 20 minutes later. A beaming member of staff from "The Moorings" asks us how we liked it, and our equally beaming faces speak for themselves: this was one of the most beautiful cruises we have ever experienced!
After checking out, we head to the Industriegebet refuelling station together: around 630 euros for two machines and a total of ten islands visited. That's fine! As our return flight is not scheduled until late in the evening, we park our suitcases in the marina and take a taxi to Victoria. Although it is one of the smallest capital cities in the world with a population of 30,000, it stands in striking contrast to our previous impressions. The Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market is definitely worth a visit with its hustle and bustle. In addition to fish, fruit and spices, there are also colourful clothes and other souvenirs for sale.
Four hours later, we ascend into the night sky and see the lights of Victoria once again before the plane plunges into complete darkness over the Indian Ocean. We take with us all the warm and sunny impressions of a marvellously beautiful motorboat area, which has more than inspired us with its natural treasures and the warmth of the people.
Cruise info
Charter: The charter company "The Moorings" offers 434 PC and 514 PC power catamarans at its base in the Eden Island Marina on the main island of Mahé. The Moorings 514 PC that we chartered has four comfortable double cabins, each with its own bathroom (shower, WC). The saloon and cockpit offer plenty of space for socialising and the galley is also generously equipped. Air conditioning in all areas and refrigerators on the flybridge and in the saloon provide cooling. The ship, which is fully equipped for a holiday, costs between 7875 and 13,405 euros for 7 days. The booking period is not tied to complete weeks, but can be booked individually. The deposit is 4350 euros; diesel is charged according to consumption. Contact: The Moorings, c/o Mariner Travel GmbH, Theodor-Heuss-Str. 53-63, Entrance B, D-61118 Bad Vilbel, Tel. 06101-55 79 15 30. www.moorings.de
Precinct: The more than 100 islands, which together form the Republic of the Seychelles, lie around 1000 nautical miles off the east coast of Africa in the Indian Ocean. The yacht charter centres on the Inner Islands, which are all close together and therefore easy to reach. Temperatures are stable all year round at between 28-30 degrees. Most of the rain falls between November and March, but these are usually only short, heavy showers. A fee is charged on some protected islands, which is usually collected on the water. Local security is high, but there are a few places where you should lock your yacht and not leave valuables on display. There are hardly any marinas worth mentioning, but there are countless anchor bays with mostly good anchoring grounds and a few mooring buoys. As the sun always sets between 18:00-18:30 and there is a strict night sailing ban for charter boats, getting up early is not only worthwhile because of the magnificent sunrises.
