The island, which is also the archipelago's seat of government, lies at the heart of the Cyclades. Some charter crews skip it on their way south, perhaps because the main town and harbour of Ermoupoli is considered by charter companies to be somewhat problematic for inexperienced crews. The reason for this is the lively ferry traffic there: Ermoupoli is a central port of call and the ferries dock close to the town pier. The result is sometimes heavy swell that hits yachts from time to time. If they are badly prepared, this can cause damage. But if you follow the loud advice of the really great harbour master Thanasis, you need have nothing to fear: Lay lots and lots of chain, at least 7 times the water depth, preferably more and don't get too close to the neighbouring berth or berths, around 1.5 metres apart is ideal. Pull in the anchor really well and tighten the chain firmly. Bring the stern just close enough to the shore for the gangway to just reach the pier. Attach one or two thick ball fenders to the stern and raise the gangway before leaving the boat. When the ferries arrive, there are no problems because the boats do indeed dance briefly, but they are far enough away from the pier and neighbours.
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A city that not only lives from tourism
And then you're in the largest and probably most beautiful town in the Cyclades, which deserves the name. Just under 12,000 inhabitants live here and the town is still firmly in their hands. Tourism is important, but not yet as dominant as on the neighbouring islands of Mykonos or Paros. Ermoupoli stretches over two hills with churches on their domes and is simply an eye-catcher. In the evening, when the lights slowly come on, the panorama is simply breathtaking. And the city is diverse. There are many restaurants and cafés along the harbour, but also shops, bakeries and small businesses in the side streets that are not just for tourism, there is even a large shipyard here. The centre is Miaouli Square with the historic town hall and the nearby Apollon Theatre. Everything can be visited (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.), but the beautiful streets should of course also be explored later. If it gets too hot, there is even a small municipal bathing area called Asteria, a few hundred metres east of the harbour. The really beautiful city can quickly cast a spell over you, and once you have started to explore it, some people stay longer.
Fantastic anchorages around Syros
But the rest of Syros also has something to offer. In the south-west of the island, the large bay of Finikas opens up with a small pier in the northern part. If you manage to get a spot there in front of the bow anchor, you can also take a taxi from there to Ermoupoli, which takes less than 20 minutes. If the pier is busy, there is plenty of room to anchor, but be sure to put in plenty of chain and run the iron in well. If the weather is calmer, the bays of Galissas and Delfini on the west coast further north offer other beautiful and rather quiet anchorages.
How to get there
From the usual charter bases in Athens or better Lavrion with a stop on the island of Kea or Kithnos, it is still about 30-35 miles to Ermoupoli, to Finikas 10 less.
Worthwhile excursions
The extensive city tour is a must, and if you like you can also book a professional guided tour (e.g. via tripadvisor). The textile museum in an old weaving mill in front of the historical machines, the tailoring and dyeing workshops and the rooms is also very well done. (www.hermoupolisheritage.com). Opening hours Fri-Mon 10-14 and 19-23, admission 10 euros.
Restaurant tips for Syros
The "Port" at Akti Papagoi 60 is original and good. Or the French-inspired "Seminario" directly behind the marina. The best place to have your first mooring drink is in the cockpit and wait for a ferry to come in to see if the ship is safely moored. Or in one of the many cafés right at the stern of your own yacht.
