The Mecklenburg Lake District is the largest closed lake district in Europe. The picturesque series of small lakes in the south-east, connected by canals and locks, are particularly popular with charter skippers. Less well known, although at least as attractive, are the larger upper lakes in the north-west. We are travelling by charter boat on Kölpinsee, Fleesensee and Plauer See, which form the eastern part of the 170-kilometre-long Müritz-Elde waterway.
No waiting times at locks, picturesque anchor bays and historic old towns: an ideal trip for a long weekend.
We picked up our charter boat for the coming weekend in the Eldenburg marina near Waren. The "Monique", with its snow-white deck and anthracite-coloured hull, is a spacious Gruno 37 Excellent steel displacement yacht that belongs to the Yachtcharter Schulz fleet.
Start on the Kölpinsee
After a short briefing, our all-female crew of four set off. After the winding canal that connects the Binnenmüritz with the Kölpinsee, the seven kilometre long and, at its widest point, five kilometre wide expanse of water of the Kölpinsee opened up before us. The lake, whose name is of Slavic origin and means something like "swan lake", is located away from large settlements and is surrounded by forests and nature reserves. And indeed, the noble white water creatures seem to feel particularly at home here, among the typical Mark Brandenburg pile dwellings along the shore.
Towards the west, the Kölpinsee narrows between the Damerower Werder in the north and the Göhrener Winkel in the south. This is where the buoy line makes a detour. This is a point that was pointed out to us again during the briefing due to the low water depth outside the navigation channel.
An originally planned stopover in Jabel is unfortunately cancelled. We were warned that the water level was too low, in the truest sense of the word. So we continue through the short Fleesen Canal, out onto Lake Fleesen, which merges into Lake Malchow in the south-west, our destination for today. After passing the green buoy at Sackberg, we leave the fairway to the east and head for the bay opposite the town of Malchow to the south. We decided not to pass the swing bridge until the next morning and instead to take advantage of the calm weather and spend the first evening at anchor. Also because the late hour makes us doubt whether there is still room for us in the town harbour.
All alone at anchor
So we drop anchor and enjoy the perfect spot, the silence and a cool drink on the aft deck. We have the bay all to ourselves. As the sun sets, we do a few laps around the boat on the SUP board, always keeping a safe distance from the reeds and the flocks of wild geese and swans that have set up camp with us for the night. Shortly before the sun sets behind Malchow, an almost deafeningly loud goodnight concert of hundreds of birds can be heard in the dense riparian forest. Before night falls over the bay, the crickets chirp us to sleep and make us dream of the summer ahead.
Malchow and its swing bridge
After breakfast, we weigh anchor and set course for the only obstacle in the area: the Malchow swing bridge connects the historic old town island with the rest of the town centre on the mainland and, as of this season, always opens ten minutes before the hour. As the narrow funnel in front of the east side of the bridge can quickly become cramped, we don't set off too early and take our time when we see the two red lights from afar. Early in the morning, however, there are only two other boats apart from us waiting for the opening. Despite the early hour, there are already a good dozen onlookers on the quay wall watching the spectacle.
The 15-metre-long pylon swing bridge was completed in 2013. Around 20,000 boats pass this narrowest point between Lake Plau and Müritz every year.
A few minutes later, the signal changes to green and the bridge keeper waves us through. The Malchow town harbour is directly south of the bridge. The outside of the harbour wall is reserved for excursion boats. Our fear of not finding a berth on the first long summer weekend proves to be unfounded. Of the 35 berths available, a good half are unoccupied. We look for a free finger jetty and take the stern to the pier. We pay a mooring fee of two euros per metre per day and an additional two euros tourist tax per person per day. Then there are the electricity tokens for one euro each, of which we will need a few more after the night at anchor.
Back on solid ground, we look forward to a long walk through Germany's only island town. Since 2011, it has borne this official addition to its name, of which its population of just under 6000 is particularly proud. Malchow's history is characterised by its unique location on and in Lake Malchow. For centuries, settlement was limited to the island. It was not until the 18th century that the town was extended to the western mainland with the permission of Duke Karl Leopold. However, the number one tourist attraction is and remains the historic town centre on the island.
After two major fires destroyed almost the entire town, the newly rebuilt houses on the island were separated by so-called tüschen and waterways. Today, a walk along the bumpy cobblestones between the pretty half-timbered houses offers a view of the lake.
We enjoy a piece of cake on the lakeside terrace at Café Kosegarten, a traditional family-run confectionery. The idyllic waterside property offers a small mini-golf course and a beautiful panoramic view of the lake. On the opposite shore, the neo-Gothic tower of the monastery church rises into the sky, and on the right, hidden behind a weeping willow, we can find our boat in the town harbour. On the neighbouring property, a young boy helps his father scrub the deck of a small sailing boat.
GDR history and organ sounds
The route continues towards the monastery complex on the eastern side of Lake Malchow. Until its destruction during the Thirty Years' War, the eastern shore and the island were connected by a wooden bridge. In 1846, the 250 metre long earth dam was opened at the same location. After a walk along the avenue lined with lime trees, we reach the former Cistercian monastery and the Engel's Garden. The dark walls of the cloister offer a welcome cooling in the midday heat. Today, the monastery church houses the Mecklenburg Organ Museum, which also organises concerts. However, we have other things in mind for today's cultural programme and make our way to the new town on the western bank.
The DDR Museum is housed in the old Film Palast on Kirchstraße and presents an interesting collection of curiosities from everyday life in the GDR.
After a short detour to the town church and the old mill, we are drawn back to the water. Just like all visitors to the island town on this day. Tourists and onlookers gather around the swing bridge and the town harbour to watch the swing bridge open and wave to the skippers passing through. A small playground and the spectacle on the swing bridge sweeten the waiting time in the long queue in front of the ice cream parlour. In the evening, there is a wide choice of restaurants and cafés near the water. We opt for a cosy beer garden with a view of the bridge and round off the evening with Müritz fish and regional "Blondes".
To Lake Plau
The next morning, the wind has picked up and the sun keeps hiding behind fast-moving clouds. Breakfast takes place below deck today. The weather app announces wind force 4, so today's stage promises to be a little more uncomfortable. We don't have far to go to our next destination. After leaving the narrow Malchower See and Reecken behind us, we cross the reed-fringed Petersdorfer See, which is spanned by the A19 motorway bridge at kilometre 129 of the Müritz-Elde waterway. Here, too, it is worth keeping an eye out for the red buoys early on, as the buoyed navigation channel curves around the southern bank.
Now only the almost 500 metre long Lenz Canal separates us from the last of the large upper lakes in Mecklenburg, Lake Plau. A no-crossing sign indicates the narrowness of the canal.
It is also winding and difficult to navigate. It's a matter of luck whether a passenger boat comes towards you on this short section. We can pass the four metre low bridge (watch the bridge level!) without oncoming traffic and head out onto Lake Plau. With an area of 38.4 km², it is the third largest lake in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and the seventh largest in Germany. We want to cross it pretty much at its widest point in a south-westerly direction. It's five kilometres from the exit at the Lenz Canal to Plau am See on the opposite shore. As soon as we leave the sheltered canal, our steel displacer has to push its way through the waves. White crests of foam carve long paths through the churning water in front of us.
We head for the red and white lighthouse, which we can already make out in the distance. Since 2012, the observation tower on the Molenkopf has not only offered a beautiful panoramic view of the lake, but also guides pleasure boat traffic entering the Elde.
The Eldeseen lakes were never really an important trade route. Passenger ships, the water police and a few fishermen are the only professional skippers to be found here. Today we come across a dinghy regatta quite a way ahead, which forces us to deviate from our direct course towards the lighthouse and make a wider turn. But we are in no hurry. We enjoy the view of the unspoilt landscape on the northern shore. This is where the Nossentiner/Schwinzer Heide Nature Park is located. In the largest contiguous forest area in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, sea eagles circle above the woods and moors. Behind the picturesque anchor bays, gentle hills bear witness to the history of the formation of the large lakes during the Ice Age.
Mecklenburg's "pearl on the lake"
For some years now, the harbour village around Plau's small marina has offered holiday flats as well as a harbour kiosk, where we register with the harbour master after our mooring manoeuvre in a strong crosswind. In search of a lunchtime snack, we head along the Elde towards the town centre. The catering options right on the riverbank leave nothing to be desired. It smells of smoked fish and the chalkboards in front of the restaurants and snack stands advertise fish sandwiches in all variations. After a little refreshment, the route continues into the historic old town of the small city, which is also known as the "pearl on the lake".
Worth seeing is the 15th century castle tower in Plau with its eleven metre deep dungeon and narrow tower ascent. There is also the blue lift bridge, behind which lies the canalised section of the Müritz-Elde waterway. From here, the canal winds its way towards Dömitz and Schwerin. For us, however, this is the end of the line for this time. The area between Müritz and Plau is perfect for a weekend cruise. If you're short on time and don't want to spend it waiting in front of locks, this is the place for you. Nowhere else in Germany do you have free passage over long stretches on a continuous, navigable lake landscape of this size. An ideal destination for a short trip with almost free navigation, lots of nature and varied shore excursions.
