Ancient towns, promenades with palm trees, anchor bays with cosy konobas, beaches with crystal-clear water - the southern Adriatic is a destination of longing. Why are boaters who already know the Adriatic between Istria and Mljet drawn to the deep south? The season is longer and warmer here and life seems to be more relaxed. We show you the coast between Dubrovnik and Ston.
The distances are short and you could travel the region in one day with a fast RIB. But then you wouldn't do justice to the many interesting places. So you should take your time, there is plenty to discover - from breathtakingly beautiful scenery to stone witnesses to a great history and unique gastronomy.
When is the best time to sail to southern Dalmatia?
In fact, you can go boating there all year round, although the air and water temperatures can drop below 15 °C between December and March and only a few konobas with boat moorings are open. From April to the end of October, the air and water in the south are so warm that you can sit at the helm in a T-shirt and jump into the water every day. It's up to you to decide whether you should travel to the touristy south in high season. It is at its busiest in August. In many places, you have to arrive in good time to get the last free boat mooring or table. However, if you go on a cruise in the early or late season, you will always get a berth and a free table in every harbour and at every konoba. The staff are also more relaxed and many things are cheaper - from the flight ticket to the lobster in the konoba.
We start our trip in Dubrovnik. The best infrastructure can be found here and we assume that this also applies to most other crews - regardless of whether they have their own or a chartered boat. The Irish poet George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) wrote in 1929 while travelling through southern Dalmatia:
If you are looking for paradise on earth, you should come to Dubrovnik."
The metropolis of the southern Adriatic is a fascinating destination for anyone interested in art and culture. The old centre within the city walls and the magnificent location on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic make the city unique. Dubrovnik has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. The Rector's Palace, the Franciscan monastery and the cathedral are just a few of the many must-see highlights.
The historic centre is surrounded by a 13th century defensive wall, which offers impressive views of the architecture and the Adriatic Sea. The car-free main street, Stradun, is famous for its many cafés.
South Dalmatia cruise ends in Ston
Our cruise heads north-west via the Koločepski Canal and ends in Ston at the northernmost tip of the Stonski Canal, where the white gold of the sea is still harvested today in the 2000-year-old salt pans. It is only 1300 metres from Ston to the district of Mali Ston, whose oysters were raved about by Giacomo Casanova and Emperor Franz Joseph. Mali Ston also has a harbour. If you wanted to sail from Ston to Mali Ston by boat, you would have to travel over 80 nautical miles and circumnavigate the entire Pelješac peninsula.
Emperor Franz Joseph therefore wanted to have a 1300 metre-long canal built. However, the First World War not only ended Habsburg rule on the Adriatic, but also the plans for the canal from Ston to Mali Ston.
We present both places here, as it only takes a few minutes to walk from Ston to Mali Ston. Those who prefer a more athletic route can walk along the defence wall. There are 41 towers, seven bastions and three forts along the wall. It was built from 1333 to 1733 under the rule of the city-state of Dubrovnik. The fortifications served to defend the salt pans. It was the white gold from Ston that ultimately founded Dubrovnik's wealth.
1st ACI Marina Dubrovnik
It is considered the most beautiful marina in the ACI network and is located at the eastern end of the Dubrovačka, the shortest river in Europe at 6 kilometres in length. There are 380 berths for boats up to 45 m in length and a comprehensive service including a travel lift (60 t), winter storage, workshop and petrol station. Restaurants, bars and a pool cater for the well-being of guests. Several charter companies have their base in the marina. Bus lines 1a/b take you to the old town centre of Dubrovnik. They run from the marina to the Pile Gate, the western entrance to the Old Town.
- Further information: www.aci-marinas.com/en/marina/aci-dubrovnik
2nd Marina Frapa Dubrovnik
In the new marina on the western shore of Gruž harbour bay, there are still plenty of free berths for day visitors and permanent residents. Guests also have access to a stylish pool bar on the roof of the service building, as well as reception, restaurant and sanitary facilities inside.) It is 2 km from Frapa to the old town centre. Buses run from the southern end of Gruž Bay to the Pile Gate.
- Further information: www.marinafrapa.hr/de/dubrovnik
3. old harbour and old town Dubrovnik
The widespread opinion that you are not allowed to dock in Dubrovnik's old town harbour is wrong. There are only no guest berths. You are allowed to enter the harbour and moor for a short time to pick up or drop off people. Alternatively, you can anchor in front of the old town harbour. Please note that anchoring is prohibited in the north-west of the harbour bay. From the old town harbour, you drop right into the historic centre. All the sights are just a few minutes' walk away. If you are visiting Dubrovnik for the first time, you should walk over the city walls. The fortified wall is 1940 metres long and offers the most beautiful views of the old town and the Adriatic Sea.
- Further information: www.wallsofdubrovnik.com
4. zaton
About 1.7 nautical miles northwest of the Franjo Tuđman Bridge is the entrance to Zaton harbour bay. Guests can moor alongside at the Veli Zaton harbour pier. There is electricity and water. About 150 metres to the south is Kasar, known for its imaginatively prepared dishes made from fresh seafood. Small boats with a draught of up to 0.9 metres can moor directly at Kasar.
- Further information: www.restaurant-kasar.hr
The Gverović Orsan restaurant is located on the east coast, Luka Zaton. Guests travelling by boat have been enjoying the finest Mediterranean cuisine here since 1966. There are moorings at the jetty or you can anchor in front of it.
- Further information: www.gverovic-orsan.hr
5 Trsteno
The Trsteno Arboretum is considered an outstanding example of Mediterranean garden art. Dating back to 1492, it is the oldest collection of exotic trees on the Adriatic. The landscaped park combines elements of the Renaissance, Baroque and Romantic periods. The picturesque arboretum was the filming location for the TV series Game of Thrones. Boats can go alongside behind the pier of the small harbour. Be careful: the waves of passing ships reflect off the rock face, creating plenty of fenders. Alternatively, you can anchor in front of the harbour.
6. bresča
An insider tip years ago, the popular bathing beach is now connected to the coastal road by a passable path. The water is crystal clear and there is a beach bar on the pier. The spaces behind the pier are often occupied. Guests anchor in the bay.
7th Slano: Marina and town harbour
In the north-east of Luka Slano lies the newest ACI marina with 200 berths for boats up to 50 metres in length. The beautiful marina is very quiet and there is a pool for guests.
- Further information: www.aci-marinas.com/de/marina/aci-veljko-barbieri-slano
The shore from the marina to the Hotel Admiral has been developed as a municipal harbour. There are inexpensive moorings here with moorings, electricity and water. In the mountains above Slano is the Gastro Vista, a rustic restaurant with a gigantic view over the town and marina. The landlord collects crews from the berth, tel. +385-98-344439.
8 Kobaš
In the north of the Elaphite archipelago, the Koločepski Canal merges into the Stonski Canal. On the port side is the popular and well-protected Kobaš bay, where you can moor at three restaurants that couldn't be more different: Luka's Taverna by old hippie Luka, Niko and brother Ante's fishing house Niko or Gastro Mare by star chef Ante Bjelančić. All have murals, electricity, water and WiFi. And all three restaurants serve excellent food. The Niko Fisherman's House also produces oil from trees in its own olive grove and makes local wine.
9th Ston and Mali Ston
From Kobaš, you can steer three miles further into the Stonski Canal, which is possible with boats with a draught of up to 2.1 metres. Harbour master Marin welcomes you in the new town harbour of Ston. He will be happy to explain the cultural highlights and organise trips to the oyster farms. The salt pans of Ston, which are over 2000 years old and are among the oldest in the Mediterranean, are well worth a visit. The salt harvest begins in mid-August.
- Further information: www.solanaston.hr
The port of Mali Ston is only 1300 metres away and can be reached via a footpath parallel to the road. It follows the course of a canal planned at the beginning of the 20th century, which was supposed to connect the two harbours and thus shorten the long waterway around the Pelješac peninsula, but was never realised. In Mali Ston, the ambitious canal construction plans of the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph are still on display in the veranda of Vila Koruna. If you're feeling sporty, you can also hike over the fortress walls to Mali Ston. They were used to defend the salt pans. The best oysters in the world are said to thrive in the mussel farms off Mali Ston. In Vila Koruna, Bota Šare and Kapetanova Kuća you can get them fresh on ice and lemon.
- Further information: www.vila-koruna.hr,www.bota-sare.hr/ mali-ston,www.ostrea.hr
