For many of our neighbours, Amsterdam is the centre of attention. And it's no wonder: the charisma and appeal of the metropolis on the IJ even extends far beyond the borders of the Netherlands. Especially as a holiday destination. But in one respect, the inland capital city has to make do: Although there is plenty of water, there is no beach. If you want to lie on the sand, you have to go to the North Sea. And if you're looking for entertainment, there's really only one place to go - the party mile on the coast: Scheveningen.
A look back
Scheveningen is the largest seaside resort in the Netherlands and bears this title with some pride. What began as a fishing village, with cottages nestled in the dunes and regularly hit by storm surges, has undergone an astonishing transformation over the past two centuries: In 1818, a resourceful resident, the shipowner Jacob Pronk, opened the first bathhouse. The salty waters were said to have great healing powers, especially for rheumatic complaints. Pronk was soon able to bask in his success: His first wooden pavilion was replaced by stone, other buildings were added, imitators followed and hotels were built, linked by a promenade. The magnificent Kurhaus, which opened in 1885, can justifiably be described as an early temple of wellness. Today it houses a grand hotel. Incidentally, the magnificent three-winged building, which not coincidentally resembles a castle, was built on the same spot where Pronk once laid his own foundation stone.
Once around the globe
Even today, the Kurhaus is still the visual eye-catcher along the Strandweg - the name of the promenade, which is now around 2.5 kilometres long and stretches from Oostduinpark in the north to the fortified harbour entrance in the south. However, this dominance is not only due to its sheer length, but also to the fact that in the following decades, one building sin after another was erected in the first, second and third rows.
However, those lying under a parasol or sipping their Mai Tai under the taut tarpaulin of a beach club won't mind. And when it comes to restaurants, cafés and bars, the choice on the beach and promenade is endless. Culinary delights span the globe, from bitterballen met mosterd to croquetas de bacalao and saté ayam. There is also something for every taste in terms of ambience: Caribbean flair under palm trees, hard rock on the tap and candlelight on the tablecloth. There is (almost) nothing that doesn't exist.
High above the sea
However, the main attraction of Scheveningen is without question De Pier, the 381 metre long pier. Even if the ravages of time have already taken their toll in one place or another, exploring the two continuous levels is still a must. The upper deck in particular offers spectacular views, for example of the jumpers who plunge death-defyingly from the observation tower at the seaward end of the pier towards the North Sea on a rubber rope. Or the zipline, which sends its "passengers" hurtling down into the valley in a harness at over 70 kilometres per hour.
And then there is Skyview, probably the only Ferris wheel in Europe that could also serve as a sea symbol. The closed gondolas rise up to a height of fifty metres above the sea.
On its own keel
Three crowned herrings adorn the coat of arms of Scheveningen - the best indication that the fish ruled here for a long time. The trawlers that still pursue it today are moored in the Eerste Haven. The Tweede Haven is entirely dedicated to pleasure craft. Guests are accommodated in its southern half, more precisely at the modern floating jetty of Jachtclub Scheveningen ( yachtclubscheveningen.com ). Here you will find full service in a modern environment, with restaurants and a supermarket on Doctor Lelykade.
When approaching the harbour, cross currents must be expected in front of the pier heads of the harbour entrance. After registering with the traffic control centre on VHF channel 21, you can enter via the Buitenhaven, the Voorhaven, the Eerste Haven (fishing harbour) and via a 200-metre-long connecting channel to the Tweede Haven. The beach is around 1.5 kilometres away from here, and the pier is around three kilometres away on foot.
Last but not least
Scheveningen is a district of The Hague. In fact, the seat of government of the Netherlands with its time-honoured parliament, ministries and modern high-rise buildings, the centre with its many bars and embassies is also only about 3.5 kilometres inland and is easy to reach by public transport. The Binckhorsthaven with the jetties of the Watersportvereniging De Vlietstreek ( wsvdevlietstreek.nl ) welcomes guests travelling on the inland waterways of North Holland.
