The Canal du Midi was originally built to facilitate trade between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Today, the waterway is a destination for crews who choose to travel at a leisurely pace. The main stretch from Toulouse to the Étang de Thau near Marseillan is 240 kilometres long and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Our one-week one-way trip focuses on the eastern section: from Argens-Minervois through the Minervois and the Hérault countryside to the lagoon area on the Mediterranean and on to Lattes. All three sections
Part 1: Through the Minervois to Capestang
Right from the start of Argens-Minervois to Capestang makes it clear what matters on the canal: manoeuvre carefully, fold down the bimini top before low bridges, and stay alert for oncoming traffic. On the Pénichette Neo, the route initially takes you through countryside where the former avenue of plane trees has yet to grow back in many places. Highlights on this leg: Le Somail with its unique bookshop and the narrow Pont de Saïsse near Capestang.
Part 2: Tunnel, lock staircase and trough bridge
By Capestang to Marseillan The canal’s history comes to the fore. Highlights along this stretch include the Malpas Tunnel, the Fonseranes lock staircase and the canal bridge over the Orb with views of Béziers – all of which are a testament to the engineering prowess of Pierre-Paul Riquet. At the end of this stage, Marseillan changes the character of the journey. At the Phare des Onglous, the Étang de Thau opens up, and oyster beds and mussel farms dominate the landscape.
Part 3: Lagoon, salt pans and flamingos
The final stretch of From Marseillan to Lattes It begins with a restless night in the harbour and then continues across the lagoon. Later, the route takes in the Sète Canal, salt marshes and flamingo colonies. Beyond Palavas-les-Flots, the Lez becomes narrower and more winding again. After 185 kilometres, numerous locks and countless bridges, the journey ends at Port Ariane in Lattes, fittingly on France’s national holiday with music and fireworks.
Which section of the Canal du Midi appeals to you most: the narrow stretches of the canal in the Minervois, the structures around Béziers, or the open lagoon area off Lattes?
Jill Grigoleit
Editor Travel
