The sales tables at the weekly market in Merrickville bend under the fresh weight of plump pumpkins. Hay sheaves adorn the window of Mrs McGarringle's delicatessen. And in the freezer of the stately "Baldachin Inn" on the corner of St. Lawrence and Main Street, just opposite the swing bridge, the frozen turkeys are already waiting for Thanksgiving - the harvest festival.
Nature is also getting ready and changing into the warm colours of autumn. A single maple tree on the banks of the canal has already caught fire, a harbinger of Indian summer, the last warm phase of the year when the vast forests here are cloaked in flaming red. It could hardly be more North American. Then we step through the Victorian wooden door of the pub that Liam had recommended to us from the charter base: "The Goose and Gridiron" - and with just one step we are in the middle of Old England. Dark panelling on the walls, thick carpet on the floorboards. Ale and stout flow from the tap and next door, behind the lead glass door, people are playing darts. This harmonious mix of old and new world can only be found in one country: Canada.
- Read also: New Le Boat charter base
The story of this trip begins the day before with our arrival in Smiths Falls, a small town with barely 9,000 inhabitants in the far south-east of the Canadian province of Ontario. As we enter the town on Highway 15 in the Chevy Impala we rented at Montreal airport, it initially looks like any other in the area: white apartment buildings, trimmed greenery, community centre, Walmart. A chocolate factory is said to have once produced chocolates on a grand scale here, but those sweet days have melted away. Instead, there is now a thriving cannabis plantation and the railway museum: the star of the rolling collection is a mighty, soot-black monster of a steam locomotive, the "1112" from 1912 to be precise. There is also a snow plough on rails and the "only preserved dentist's wagon in North America".
World Heritage Site: Rideau River
Other attractions include a waterfall (suggested by the town's name), which has more to do with the special significance of Smiths Falls: The Rideau River - and thus the Rideau Canal - flows through the centre of the town. The rocky edge over which the river foams here has been bypassed by locks for almost two hundred years. There are 23 barrages in total along the waterway, which was created for military reasons but was then peacefully conquered by recreational skippers. A world cultural heritage site and, since last season, the youngest charter area in the world.
We can already see them from the bridge over the canal: The white "Horizons" from Le Boat on the jetty in front of Victoria Park and on the other side, in the old Lockmaster's House on Jasper Avenue, the office of our charter company. We are even greeted with a "warm welcome", which is not quite round yet, but all the more friendly. In the customer car park, we see not only Canadian cars but also number plates from our neighbouring country to the south - and some of them come from surprisingly far away: Kentucky, Washington State, even California. The new destination in the charter offer also seems to have an effect on Europeans; no wonder: Canada "pulls". Hence not only the friendly welcome, but also the fact that the charter material is in German.
On board the Horizon 3
After we have brought our things on board, Liam takes over the briefing and explains the special features of the new type of boat. In addition to a modern and bright saloon and an extensive flybridge, it also has a practical steering system (especially for beginners): the levers for the bow and stern thrusters have been connected in such a way that the massive plastic hull can be manoeuvred with one hand - even sideways. In the reservoir between the two locks of Smiths Falls, in the shadow of the tall water tower, we take a familiarisation lap, then we are our own masters. But we won't be setting off again this afternoon: the operating hours of the locks - which, like the canal as a whole, are managed by the National Parks and Historic Sites Authority, Parks Canada - are staff-friendly: 10 am to 4 pm. As the historic technology of most of the barrages still relies entirely on muscle power, this is perfectly understandable. So we go shopping (the strip mall on the road towards Kingston) offers everything we need in this respect, from a well-stocked independent grocer's supermarket to various fast food franchises and the LCBO, the local branch of the Liqour Control Board of Ontario. This is the only place where high-proof liquor can be sold - that's the law.
We set sail the next morning under a late summer blue sky, with only fine clouds fanning out over the horizon to the north. Our destination today is the aforementioned Merrickville in the north-east, towards Ottawa. In the days that follow, we will then head in the other direction, to the south-west. The first lock is already waiting; the Parks Canada rangers have already spotted us and opened the upper gate. We descend eight metres. This makes "Combined No. 29" one of the single locks with the greatest difference in level in the area - but it is also one of the few modern structures; the historic staircase consisting of two chambers is still preserved next door.
Helpful lock staff
Nevertheless, the locking process here (as at all other barrages) is absolutely relaxed, regardless of whether you are travelling downhill or uphill. One reason for this is that the chamber walls are equipped with steel climbing ropes at close intervals. Your own lines only need to be passed round once and then no longer need to be passed round. The other reason is that the lock staff are always ready to help. And as there are always at least two rangers present, at least one helping hand is always ready. We cross a small lake to the "Old Slys Locks", a staircase with an upper and lower chamber, and then the town releases us: the stately Rideau now winds its way through the friendly landscape. At first, impressive estates line the banks. Here and there, modern bungalows and dignified gables peek through the foliage, with neat lawns, stone fireplaces and Canadian maple on the flagpoles.
It soon becomes more lonely. This is also because the floodplains on both sides are flat and wet. The wide water level of the river is also deceptive: the navigation channel is always surprisingly narrow, but all the better marked. Downstream there are red, pointed floating poles on the port side; on the starboard side they are green and blunt. Forests and meadows pass by and every now and then a farm with silver silos. Behind the reeds, trucks with long semi-trailers chase southwards on Highway 15.
Everyone greets everyone
Two more dreamy locks are passed, first "Edmunds No. 25", then "Kilmarnock No. 24". The latter with a wooden, hand-curved swing bridge directly above the chamber and retired people painting and drinking wine. The rest of the journey, a good hour, offers picturesque views: With no wind at all, the lakes lie before us like glass. We meet a few anglers in aluminium boats and two small cabin cruisers. Everyone says hello to everyone else here. In the early afternoon, we moor alongside the public dock in Merrickville. A Sundancer from Ottawa is already there, as is another Horizon.
After our evening in the "Gridiron", we turn the bow of our Horizon against the current again. It would be around seventy kilometres and nine barrages from here to the Canadian capital Ottawa. Unfortunately, this is just as impossible to do in a week on our own keel as the entire (and even further) journey south to Kingston on Lake Ontario. We will concentrate on what is already the most beautiful part of the waterway: the elongated Rideau chain of lakes. To do this, we follow our course line from yesterday back to Smiths Falls and immediately tackle the next locks, "Smiths Falls No. 31" and shortly afterwards "Poonamalie No. 32". The dark stripes on the rocks of the lock channel indicate low water levels - it was a hot summer here too. We have reached Lower Rideau Lake, the first of the three connected lakes in the district.
History led to the construction of the "Rideau Canal" waterway
This chain, which is around thirty-five kilometres long, played an important role in the construction of the Rideau Canal almost 200 years ago: During the so-called "War of 1812", one of the sideshows of the Napoleonic Wars in Europe, Great Britain and the fledgling United States faced each other in arms. While the British were able to celebrate successes on land further south, the Americans had the upper hand in naval battles further north. Even after peace had been concluded, London feared that the St Lawrence River, the link between the Atlantic and the Great Lakes, which was vital for supplying the British territories, could be blocked in the future. The decision was made to build a waterway that would bypass the St. Lawrence and lead through a safe hinterland: the Rideau Canal.
Colonel John By, a British Army engineer, was commissioned to carry out the project. The colonel chose two rivers whose headwaters would only have to be connected: the longer northern section would be formed by the Rideau River, the southern section by the Cataraqui River. Although the new two-hundred-kilometre waterway between the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario would require a whole series of elaborate hydraulic structures - including a stone lock staircase with eight chambers and the highest dam on the continent at the time - only nineteen kilometres would have to be artificially created.
With the resources of the Crown, By set to work and was able to report completion just six years after the start, on 29 May 1832. A monumental achievement - only the dreaded American blockade failed to materialise. However, the settlement of Bytown, founded at the northern end of the canal and named after the engineer, grew and grew. Today it is called Ottawa.
The sky is now overcast, a cold wind is blowing and it is starting to rain. The seagulls perch discontentedly on the stones sticking out of the water to the right and left of the fairway. Luckily, we can also sail comfortably from inside! Today we want to take the only branching side waterway, the Tay Canal, to Perth, a small, now quite pretty trading town that also grew up thanks to the canal - albeit on a much more modest scale than Bytown. Two locks ("Lower" and "Upper Beveridges") are quickly mastered, and after just under two hours the last veils of rain clear as we tie up at the "Last Duel Park" with the stern. A plaque tells us that the country's last fatal duel between law students Robert Lyons and John Wilson actually took place here. The year was 1833 and it was about a woman, Elizabeth Hughes. Wilson was shot and Lyons died, but the subsequent marriage of the two remaining men was - according to reports - deeply unhappy ...
Big Rideau Lake lives up to its name
In better weather, we head further south-west the next morning. At Rideau Ferry (the barge has long since been replaced by a multi-lane concrete bridge), Lower Rideau Lake merges into Big Rideau Lake. It lives up to its name and is deeper, wider and bluer than its predecessor. The rocky, wooded shores here look more like the adventurous Canada that Europe has in mind. After two and a half hours at sea, the lock "Narrows No. 35" finally comes into view - our last one. It cuts through a narrow spit of land, behind which Upper Rideau Lake stretches out. Another hour and we are moored at the Westport jetty. "There's only one block here where you'll find everything," the harbour master explains with a laugh. "Turn right three times and you'll be back at the harbour. If you get lost here, I'd be worried". We stick to it, don't get lost and end the day on the flybridge with a view over the lake.
The next morning, the wind is blowing so strongly from the north-east that the willows at the harbour are bending. Despite the bright blue sky. White whitecaps outside. Kudrowski's Food Market serves fresh Kaiser rolls! By and for emigrants, perhaps. Also interesting: "Sauerfrau" sauerkraut from a squeeze bottle, flavour: beer/mustard... Before we have to head back towards Smiths Falls, we want to head at least a little further south. It's fresh, but not too fresh for the sunlounger upstairs. With its flat bottom, our Horizon goes over the short wave like an ironing board, the whole hull vibrates. But then we turn and as soon as the wind is gone, it gets warm. We moor in front of the Newboro lock. From here, it would be downhill again: the short cut through the rock connects the apex of the canal, i.e. Upper Rideau Lake (and the Rideau River) with the Cataraqui River, which flows southwards from here to Lake Ontario. A walk into town brings us to Kilborn's, half country store, half souvenir shop. On offer are "Beaver Rub" and maple syrup, hand-painted cowboy boots and elegant Iroqouis ponchos.
Day's destination: Colonel By Island on Big Rideau Lake
We have to keep going, because this time our destination for the day is Big Rideau Lake. After passing through the Narrows lock again, we turn east onto a side channel that leads us into a densely wooded archipelago of rocky islands - to Colonel By Island. Two boats are already there, including another Horizon. We will also be heading back to the charter base tomorrow to use the remaining time for excursions by car to Ottawa and Kingston.
But before that, one last unusual place awaits: Colonel By Island, which is now under the supervision of Parks Canada, belonged to taxi magnate Danny Arnstein from New York after the end of the war. He had the island lavishly converted into a holiday residence. The villa further up, which was state of the art in the 1950s, is completely barricaded. "Keep out!", warns a rusting sign. Show stars such as David Niven and Paul Anka used to be guests here and party music echoed far out onto the lake. Now, shy red deer graze on the lawn and silence reigns in the forest, whose floor is covered in a carpet of maple saplings. With a brief flare of the sky, the day bids farewell and the Rideau reflects its last glow. Then night falls.
Cruising stages
- Smiths Falls - Merrickville: 22 km
- Merrickville - Perth: 46 km
- Perth - Westport: 43 km
- Westport - Newboro - Colonel By Island: 28 km
- Colonel By Island - Smiths Falls: 30 km
- Total distance: 169 km
Weather/climate
Literature
Watercourse maps: Navigation Charts "1512: Ottawa to Smiths Falls" and "1513 Smiths Falls to Kingston", official Canadian editions. Charts are available on board the charter boats
Travel guide: "Canada. The East" Kurt J. Ohlhoff and Ole Helmhausen. Dumont Reise: 512 p., format: 12.6 x 19.6 cm, paperback, ISBN 978-3-77017-852-0, price: €25.99. shop.dumontreise.de
Tips
Ottawa: essential. The journey to the base in Smiths Falls - especially with a hire car - will usually be via the provincial capital at the northern end of the Rideau Canal, which is really worth seeing. It is too far to get there by boat. However, you should plan to spend a day or two in Ottawa by car. Highlights include Parliament Hill and the Canadian Museum of History.
Montreal: rather not. If your time in Canada is limited to a few extra days of travelling, you can safely leave Montreal off your itinerary (even if you land there). Unfortunately, the metropolis on the St Lawrence River has surprisingly little to offer in terms of tourism.
Charter
For the one-week charter trip on the Rideau Canal, we used a Horizon 3 houseboat from Le Boat. The boats in this very modern series were specially developed for charter operations and exclusively for Le Boat. Variants from two to five cabins (10+2 beds) are available in Canada. In our case, the base, start and destination was the village of Smiths Falls near the Rideau chain of lakes in the centre of the region. However, only part of the approximately 200-kilometre-long waterway can be explored in a week, and more if the rental period is longer. However, Le Boat has route suggestions for every eventuality. In addition, a second (already bookable) base in Seeley's Bay (see map) will be available from 2019, for which there are also one-way offers. Information: Le Boat, Theodor-Heuss-Str. 53-63, Eing. B, 61118 Bad Vilbel, Tel. 06101-557 91 75. www.leboat.com
Our boat
- Type: Horizon 3 (displacer, plastic)
- Length: 13,50 m
- Width: 4,35 m
- Berths: 3 (3 double cabins)
- WC/shower:3/3
- Special features: Bow and stern thruster, fixed fender rails, oven, microwave, grill on the flybridge, heating, air conditioning
- Weekly prices: between around € 2200 and € 5200 depending on the season
Driving licence
The area is licence-free. However, the charter company will carry out a short familiarisation trip when you take over the boat.
Territory: Rideau Lake
Length: 202 km (shortest route) from Ottawa to Kingston, - Clearance height: 6.7 m (many movable bridges with lower height) - Draft: various; in buoyed fairways and in lock channels at least 1.5 m - Maximum speed: none, near the shore (30 m) and in designated sections 10 km/h - Registration: recreational craft with an engine power of 10 hp require registration with licence plate. Information: www.tc.gc.ca/boatingsafety. There are also fees for using the canal. Overview: www.rideau-info.com - Authority: Parks Canada, www.parkscanada.gc.ca - Information: www.rideauheritageroute.ca
Navigation
Navigation is largely unproblematic during the day. It may be necessary to pay attention to the water level. Caution in uncertain weather! The buoyage (IALA-B, see text) is sufficient, but the individual buoys are not always easy to recognise.
